I have been using orvis mud on my tippets (rio flouro) and it struck me the other day that as it is slightly abrasive this must alter its "invisible" properties under the water ?

Anybody got any views ? am i off the mark ?

Many thanks

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As I understand it; each microscopic scratch now reflects light from a myriad angles and thus will have completely destroyed your fluorocarbon's previous stealthy invisibility (by refractive index).
As fluoro is much denser than water, and sinks well, why abrade it in the first place?

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Save the softmouth trout

Excellent point Ephemerella,

I too used fullers earth/fairy washing up liquid mix on my fluoro leaders,
I use riverge.
I'll have stop using the sinkant mix from now on!

Hi, thanks for the response.

My 3.6lb rio flouro does not sink. As it is quite a light bstrain it must not be heavy enough to get through the surface film.

Maybee xink is the answer ?

The refractive index isn't affected by scratches as it's an intrinsic property to the polymer - they wont scatter any more light in water as the indices still match. In air, as the refractive index of the polymer and air already differs significantly you will see the scratches just as you can see the tippet.

What may happen with scratches is that they trap small air bubbles which will reflect very strongly under water or general grease and grime from fingerprints which will also scatter light. Most likely is that the layer of mud is visible on the flourocarbon as mud is opaque and absorbs light. Best bet is to degrease it as best as possible such that it cuts through the surface using as thin a layer of mud as possible, or thin it with washing up liquid.

RogB

Quite right Rogb, the above is true.

As regards degreasing the tippet, some of the most effective still water dry
fly anglers do this to their fluorocarbon leaders. Even degreasing the leaders doesn't always cause them to sink, especially in a flat calm when the surface tension is at its strongest. One of the best expedients I have found is to apply a tiny, and I mean tiny amount of tungsten putty (Kryston Ultra Heavy Metal is the best) to the leader, about 18 inches from the fly. You have to get the amount right, too much and the fly sinks, too little and the leader wont sink.

Another way is to use a weighted fly on a dropper, fishing clothes line style. The only problem here is you can't adjust the weight like you can with the tungsten putty.

Great replies, thank you.

I find it not to be.



Despite close refractive indexes fluorocarbon is still visible in water. Try it, drop a short cut off hook length, leave the fly on, into a tumbler of water. Hold it to the light and marvel how it seems to almost glow at the knot and on any damaged or kinked sections.
At least this is the case on the 12 to 15 lb tippet lengths I've tested in Momoi Seaguar and other, such as Loop and Scientific Angler, quality 100% fluorocarbon brands.
I've no experience on really light fluoro, prefering 4 lb co-polymer for small dries, however I'm sure the same will apply - but maybe requiring a magnifying glass?

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Save the softmouth trout

I agree 100%