Have any members any wizard wheezes for untangling flies from unreachable tree branches after all the usual textbook tuggings have failed? That is, anything cheaper than a ghillie with a chainsaw? While I'm about it, ideas for getting them out of nettle beds itch-free would be gratefully received too.

In his 'Small-River Fishing for Trout and Grayling', James Evans describes a hook contraption he made with bent wire that fits through the top rings of your rod, but I've never found it much use, as well as being unwieldly to carry. I carry a cord with a hook which I try to sling over the offending limb to pull it to within arm's length but I confess it doesn't work at least half the time.

Further to the subject, I posted a thread in the Tackle Talk forum a few weeks ago inviting comment on rod breakages. Several members kindly responded but I had the feeling they were mostly users of the longer lengths of rod. As a brand-new member, I wasn't entirely familiar with the system and was unaware that this sub-forum existed, otherwise I'd have posted it here. If you're interested, you may want to look up the original thread of 2-3 weeks ago, but briefly, the problem is as follows.

After several decades of fishing small overgrown streams with the same 8ft with no mishap, last season I bought a £20 7-fter. This season I broke it, then broke another one a few weeks later. In both cases, I was trying to free the fly from vegetation. Members who follow this sub-forum will know how often you have to do this on a small stream by contrast with, say a biggish river or still water. I'd like to tap this collective experience with a couple of questions:

Is any 7ft rod more easily broken that say, any 8ft or 9ft or 10ft simply by virtue of being thinner?

Are more expensive small rods more robust than cheapos? Or is it that more expensive brands have more rigorous quality control?

Tight tangle-free lines to one and all.

Petnik

I've no solution for retreiving the fly but do not put any strain on the rod when I go for a break off. I tend to get the rod and line in the same plane before I pull. The angle of dangle depends on how high the fly is caught.

regards

Vince

I think Vince has it correct. You can't yank on the rod.
There is some very thick and wild stream side cover in Vermont.
My buddy and I have elected to keep graphite rods for large streams and rivers and use glass for the small streams where flexibility and durability are of more value to us than line speed or light weight. I am using the Vision Cult Fiber 6’6” #4 which is 64g. It is plenty light in the hand accurate, delicate with a feel much like a quality bamboo rod; it flexes into the cork and plays fish very well. It took a bit to get my head around fiberglass again as that was in my mind old tech but I was wrong. I still would not be yanking on the line with the rod to free my fly!

Bobby

I normally shove the rod in my waders and pull dirwectly on the line. If you pull very gradually normally the fly will unloop itself from the tree or undergrowth. If you have already tugged during the cast and "set the hook" I normally leave the fly as a bad job, could always take up tree climbing.

Dan

You could carry an axe, bow saw or if you want to be kind to the tree, an extension ladder. Bottom line is..to be successful at fly retrieval from trees you will have to carry some form of cumbersome tool or start climbing! You shouldn't be using your rod! Point it and pull to snap of the fly. Tie up more of the patterns you use. All rods break easily at the tip no matter the cost/brand if you bend them at one point near the tip in the wrong manner, SNAP! If you try to pull the fly line directly down the blank parallel to it whilst setting up in haste, SNAP! The blank performs under a progressive curve.

better still for flies in trees .... get ya casting right and it wont happen

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WHEN YOU LEAVE THE RIVER, TAKE NOTHING, AND LEAVE ONLY FOOTPRINT'S!!!

THA CAN TELL A YORKSHIREMAN ,BUT THA CAN'T TELL HIM MUCH !!

As far as nettles are concerned, don't pussyfoot around with them. Grip the stem quickly and firmly between thumb and forefinger and snap it off. Using the same principle, crush the sting fibres near to the fly, remove fly. The stings only sting with gentle skin contact.
If the offending nettle is in the midst of its brethren, smite the bretheren down with boots or a stick/landing net.
Grasp the Nettle!

__________________
"Angling may be said to be so like mathematics in that it can never be fully understood" - Izaak Walton

hi there,
this is an old solution i read in a magazine long ago.
1:get a cigar tube put a suitable wire hook (ie.coat hanger wire) sticking out the top.
2:make a small hole at the bottom of the tube and connect some string,old fly line etc.
now when one of those offensive trees sneak up from behind and grab your fly you simply put the cigar tube over the top of your rod, lift up and hook the branch, lower your rod and remove to safe distance ensuring there is ample slack fly line out and pull the branch down to you.
failing that whip out your pet beaver and wait till nature takes its course .
tight lines

nevre pull on the rod, i have had some unfortuante breakages from pulling on the rod. if you can get hold of the fly line try and pull in one plane.

if worst comes to worse a chain saw as part of your fishing equipment could be handy.

regards
rivercoln

failing all that you could ask ..

stillwater angler

mikgee

ribbleman

squeeks

all members on here and i have photographic evidence of them using there best methods to retrieve flies from tree trout

__________________
WHEN YOU LEAVE THE RIVER, TAKE NOTHING, AND LEAVE ONLY FOOTPRINT'S!!!

THA CAN TELL A YORKSHIREMAN ,BUT THA CAN'T TELL HIM MUCH !!