Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchy1978
Ideally i would place them on the spine, well the opposite of it..
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That is the way I do it too, Jerry. Here we use another terminology to describe the spine, we speak of the soft and the hard side. The latter being the side were the most carbon is (the overlap). All builders know you determine these sides by rolling the flexed blank (butt on the ground) with the tip in the palm of your hand. You feel the springy sensation of the blank rolling onto one side (the soft one). You can do it another way by balancing the blank on the edges of a drinking glass. The blank rolls on his soft side (least resistance). That is where the guides go (if the blank is straight in that position

). As Jerry says it often isn't. It's hard to compromise, aligning the blank and putting the guides out of the axis will result in a rod twisting to find his spine when flexed. Put the guides where they belong and you're left with a rod "to fish around the corner"

. Yet I would go for the second option. Rather have a rod that isn't straight but casts well and doesn't twist whilst playing a fish, than the opposite. As for the overlap, this is as we know because the inner cut line doesn't lie exactly under the outer cut line of the cloth. Ideally when it does, this should leave you with no spine at all. Unfortunately this is almost never the case. With two piece rods aligning the outer lines is not much of a problem. You can see them faintly under the varnish. With (smaller) pieces of 3 or more piece rods it gets a bit more complicated as overlaps can be different in width on each part. Hence the problem of finding the spine. Multiple piece rods will often "spring" less noticeable (maybe that is why manufacturers say there is no spine anymore?

).
Johan