After some advice please.
I was wondering what you more experienced guys would recommend.
I have used heavy (12wgt) saltwater fly lines but to date these have had welded loops built in.
I've now bought a couple of lines which have no welded loops but have included braided loops with the line.
I assume I attach these as normal but, to give the loops added security, I was proposing to include a couple of nail knots.
Views/advice gratefully received!

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Eagles may soar high....but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines!

Don't use the plastic/silicone sleeve,and whip finnish at the junction of line/braid and varnish.If you can't whip finnish then a long nail knot at the same place.covered in varnish or aquasure.you must let the braid grip the line.2 whips/nail knots stop this happening.
Butt the flyline right up to the braid loop.3''of flyline inside the braid is plenty.

Jim

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The Fishermans Friend is the Flirty Fly,Fickle Food for Fleeting Fish.

Thanks Jim..I was wondering whether to use the plastic tube, as they had included it.

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Eagles may soar high....but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines!

I have not used the plastic sleeve for several years.with no bad results. in both Trout and Salmon lines.

Jim

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The Fishermans Friend is the Flirty Fly,Fickle Food for Fleeting Fish.

I always make my own cast connectors from a spool of appropriate strength braided nylon, so that I can ensure a longer connector with up to 9" of fly line inserted into the braid - I found in salmon fishing that the shorter braids were inclined to cast off in use. I finish with a whipping and seal the end with the plastic sleeve then coat with Aquasure to get it smooth. I believe the new fishin' glue etc are equally effective, but I've always got Aquasure to hand and so I just use that. I've also started to do the same on all my lines - when instructing, I find the jerky actions of some beginners are hard on cast connectors.

I have been using the following method of making and connecting braided loops to all my salt water lines, including 12wts and above for years now, and they have NEVER EVER let me down.

If you have ever made your own braided loops for trout or salmon fishing, you will notice that the method shown differs slightly, and herein lies its strength. I have taken fish to getting on for 200lb using these loops, and as I say they have all stood the test of time perfectly.

I would however advise that you chuck away the loops supplied with your line (I presuming it to be an Airflo) and make up your own, as they will not be constructed as shown in the link.....Should you decide to go down this route and make your own, I use Gudebroad hollow braid in 30lb for lines up to 10wts and 50lb for 11wts and above.

Hope this helps.

There are several methods of making and attaching loops to fly lines

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Brian G

Thanks for that input Brian.I'll give that a try on my salty lines.

Thanks Brian, I've saved the link!

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Eagles may soar high....but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines!

Hello Elucius

Check out Captain Grant Hartman's Hitch it works very well and is designed for the job.The only mod I did to it was to use a figure 8 loop as opposed to a surgeons in the end loop.It is well proven and worth consideration.I have been through the card on fly line to leader connections for heavyweights and the whipped loop in Lefty's book never let me down and same deal with some braid sleeve loop connections although mine are quite long and dabbed with a bonding agent along the length.Hartman Hitch is a goodun'

Good hunting JP

I'm having problems locating 30lb and 50lb Gudebrod hollow braid...can someone point the way please!

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Eagles may soar high....but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines!