Just wondering if anyone had used foam craft sheets to make accent rings in cork handles?

Or any other suggestions for material to use to make dark/black accent rings?

Hf

Hi HF

I've tried al sorts of materials from poker chips to craft foam. The thing i don't like about foam is the way it ages and the way it behaves on the lathe.
It's a pain to keep it level with the regular cork.

I always use thin slices of burnt cork of about two milimeters but i slice those myself. Lamar now Roddancer also has thin burnt strips.
If you do want to use foam use very thin and closed celled stuff, i've used hareline's 3mm. Be shure when you glue everything on the rod the pressure applied is equal otherwise you will end up with wobbly rings..

Jerry

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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

Dutchy,

Thanks for that. I have just glued a few test rings together with a ring cut from fly tying foam, I'll see in the morning how it sands etc.

Can I ask how you slice the thin rings of burnt cork?

Hf

Hi HF

For cutting cork rings I use one of the cutting jigs and a stanley fat max pull saw.

Cheers

Steve

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Steve Parkes

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info@atomsix.co.uk

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previously
www.zenithflyrods.co.uk

This is bats - far and away the best stuff is compo cork - cheap , durable etc - you get it from Siesta !

IMHO , that is !

Steve P

I agree Steve. I tried a few attempts using the foam and I have to say it's not something I would want to put on a customers rod.

Use rubberised cork...far better.

__________________
Steve Parkes

www.atomsix.co.uk

info@atomsix.co.uk

Terenzio silk fly lines

Atomsix furled leaders

previously
www.zenithflyrods.co.uk

David.

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Thanks for that.

I see what you mean. I glued some up between some old cork rings. The foam wouldn't sand to the same level as the cork (must compress I suppose) and it is a lot softer than the cork. I won't be using it.

HF

It also doesn't feel as nice on the finished grip. Cork might just be the perfect grip material. It has just enough give that it isn't hard and 'cold'. It is smooth, but has enough character for grip. You can shape it to fit your hand and it holds a great shape, but then the more you use it and 'break it in' the better it fits what your hand actually wants.

Rubber cork is great. I use a razor blade (i never made/bought a jig) to get it close and a sander to make it truly flat (and the exact thickness). There is another type of cork that is larger chips, more like a plyboard appearance. It works well too and it comes in colors (red, green, and blue last I checked).

Thanks,
Rick

I use a lot of craft foam to bring the color of the blank/wraps into the grip. i find that if you glue it up with epoxy and give it a good squeeze it absorbs some of the epoxy and stiffens up quite a bit. After it has dried it turns down nicely.

Order on this one is; Natural Burl Cork, tan craft foam, maple burl, mixed burnt and burl cork, spotted cork and finally rubberized cork.


I sand all my grips down to 12000 using micro mesh, takes a little longer but really evens everything out. I use a lot of wood trim rings in my grips so finish all my grips with 6 to 8 coats of Tru-oil (gun stock finish). With the availability of really good cork becoming tougher and tougher I find myself using more and more non-traditional materials in my grips.

Colin