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Old 02-03-2010, 10:13 AM
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Default Fuji ring spacings

I am building a 10' #5 and using single leg fujis...I have the rings (removed from an old rod) and I have 11 guides (not inc. tip) but all the ring spacing guides I can find on the net give spacings for 12 guides...what is the perceived wisdom on this...if using single leg fujis can I use less than the recommended rings or should I use more? Can anybody point me to a chart(or method of calculating) for 11 guides on a 10' fly rod?
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:16 AM
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Here are the spacings for a 10ft, 5wt, Sage XP (4 piece) that will give you a start. Tip and 11 rings.

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Old 02-03-2010, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by malley2us View Post
I am building a 10' #5 and using single leg fujis...I have the rings (removed from an old rod) and I have 11 guides (not inc. tip) but all the ring spacing guides I can find on the net give spacings for 12 guides...what is the perceived wisdom on this...if using single leg fujis can I use less than the recommended rings or should I use more? Can anybody point me to a chart(or method of calculating) for 11 guides on a 10' fly rod?
Topconker has thread on here about rod building. If you PM him he has a very good guide spacing programme that he will send you that will let you work out ring spacings easily for any length of rod or number of guides. It is very good.






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Old 02-03-2010, 12:46 PM
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David,

I am not a rod builder, having only a few attempts many, many years ago when I was a teenager, but I remember the method they used was to pull the tip into a flex and mark the curve on a large piece of paper.
The X axis was then divided into the number of guides that you wanted, and vertical lines drawn upwards to meet the curve. Where they met was where you put the guide.
If this is still the method used to determine spacings, then would not the type of taper determine the spacings, not just length and number of guides? A fast tippy blank would have most of the guides concentrated near the top, and a more butt actioned blank would have them more evenly distributed?

Cheers
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:22 PM
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This is getting over complicated again - there are no rules and there is maybe nobody who has ever built enough of the same rods but each one differently - to have done the actual work and testing to prove a theory .

Quite a lot of unscrupulous rogues over the years have written purportedly authoritative articles on the subject - remember that you get little more than £50 for an article from virtually every magazine and it is a very easy way to make £50 for an hour's writing - because the week after - under a different name - you can write the contra article and have another £50 for a bit of hack work ! Dick Walker used to do this and his contra name was usually Mr P.I.Staker !

I'd distrust somewhat Sage because queerly you will find that there is usually a ring at the bottom of every major section - no matter how long the rod - and that should just not be - if there was a viable theory - except there isn't . It happens to be Sage's House Style and very pretty it is until you get a bit of grit in there and bend the ring nicely wrenching the sections apart .

The biggest batch of similars I ever built was 225 which took a month or two and a fine time I had of it because I basically made most slightly different on the ring spacings - just to see what happened . Not one customer ever said anything - even folks who bought them in pairs with different ring spacings .

Basic rule approximation is one intermediate ( inc buttring ) per foot and if it looks right to your eyes - it probably is . Use the biggest you can get on the rod without it looking ludicrous is another sensible 'rule' - less friction in shooting the line .

And the tournament boys are down to 3 rings these days I understand - all on the tip section of a two piece 9'3" cannon !

And of course if you are building for yourself alone one of the best tricks of all is to offset the reelseat around 45 degrees - makes the rod unsaleable - but better to fish and cast with ! ( And they don't tell you that one either ! )

Have fun building and go for effect - not pretty ! It may look nice but in 20 years it'll be out of date no matter what you do !

Best wishes

Steve P
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:57 PM
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Thanks everyone...Steve...I suspected as much because i've just been comparing some other rods and some are very different in the spacings and the number of rings used.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by stevel View Post
David,

I am not a rod builder, having only a few attempts many, many years ago when I was a teenager, but I remember the method they used was to pull the tip into a flex and mark the curve on a large piece of paper.
The X axis was then divided into the number of guides that you wanted, and vertical lines drawn upwards to meet the curve. Where they met was where you put the guide.
If this is still the method used to determine spacings, then would not the type of taper determine the spacings, not just length and number of guides? A fast tippy blank would have most of the guides concentrated near the top, and a more butt actioned blank would have them more evenly distributed?

Cheers

I have no idea about that Steve I do it my own way. One thing I do think is wrong with many rods, whether they be of a tippy action or a deep flexing one, is that too wide a guide spacing at the lower end of the rod inhibits performance if the spacing between guides is too great. The rod will cast fine but not as well as it could.

Many years ago I worked with a young man from Edinburgh University on his PhD. He was studying cantilever beam frequency and bending moments of levers. He shot film in an unusual high speed camera which shot film at an incredible rate. The developed film showed ultra slow motion sequences of my split cane fly rods being cast. It was obvious early on when viewing the sequence of shots, that the norm of increased spacing towards the lower part of the rod shaft was inhibiting line shoot. The illustration of the lines performance was irrelevant to the young man for his PhD, but was an education for me to see how the line slapped about between the guides on the back and forward casts.

The chord created by the angle of the line trapped by the friction between the guide and the line was inhibiting the line from flowing through the guides smoothly. You could clearly see the contact area was increased around the guide the bigger the gap. Increasing the guide number and re -jigging the spacing reduced the angle of the line contact and thus the tendency for the line to slap. line shoot increased dramatically due to the reduced friction, and with it the distance cast for less effort. Reducing the gap reduced the angle of the line contact and thus the tendency for the line to slap. line shoot increased dramatically due to the reduced slap/friction, and with it the distance cast for less effort. Too many guides though had a negative effect. Mass increased overall inhibiting the rod shaft recovery rate and reduced performance.

Nowadays I do these rod guide spacing tests with a digital camcorder to record performance. While this not in any real sense the same as high speed slow motion. The slow motion frame by frame view is a revelation in showing how a rod bends during the cast, and how ring spacing effects the casting performance. Anyone can do the same with a digital camera, a rod blank, a set of guides and some tape to see just how guide placement effects performance.

You can of course make your choice and take an interest in the art/science of fitting guides in the correct position to improve fly rod performance, or just put them on anywhere you wish as Steve P suggests. Steve also says if it looks right, it probably is right. Maybe so... but that assumes one knows what looking right is supposed to look like.....







David.
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by David N View Post
I have no idea about that Steve I do it my own way. One thing I do think is wrong with many rods, whether they be of a tippy action or a deep flexing one, is that too wide a guide spacing at the lower end of the rod inhibits performance if the spacing between guides is too great. The rod will cast fine but not as well as it could.

Many years ago I worked with a young man from Edinburgh University on his PhD. He was studying cantilever beam frequency and bending moments of levers. He shot film in an unusual high speed camera which shot film at an incredible rate. The developed film showed ultra slow motion sequences of my split cane fly rods being cast. It was obvious early on when viewing the sequence of shots, that the norm of increased spacing towards the lower part of the rod shaft was inhibiting line shoot. The illustration of the lines performance was irrelevant to the young man for his PhD, but was an education for me to see how the line slapped about between the guides on the back and forward casts.

The chord created by the angle of the line trapped by the friction between the guide and the line was inhibiting the line from flowing through the guides smoothly. You could clearly see the contact area was increased around the guide the bigger the gap. Increasing the guide number and re -jigging the spacing reduced the angle of the line contact and thus the tendency for the line to slap. line shoot increased dramatically due to the reduced friction, and with it the distance cast for less effort. Reducing the gap reduced the angle of the line contact and thus the tendency for the line to slap. line shoot increased dramatically due to the reduced slap/friction, and with it the distance cast for less effort. Too many guides though had a negative effect. Mass increased overall inhibiting the rod shaft recovery rate and reduced performance.

Nowadays I do these rod guide spacing tests with a digital camcorder to record performance. While this not in any real sense the same as high speed slow motion. The slow motion frame by frame view is a revelation in showing how a rod bends during the cast, and how ring spacing effects the casting performance. Anyone can do the same with a digital camera, a rod blank, a set of guides and some tape to see just how guide placement effects performance.

You can of course make your choice and take an interest in the art/science of fitting guides in the correct position to improve fly rod performance, or just put them on anywhere you wish as Steve P suggests. Steve also says if it looks right, it probably is right. Maybe so... but that assumes one knows what looking right is supposed to look like.....







David.
David,

That's very interesting. I guess with all the simulation software available these days, and an army of geeky PHD student all to willing to take up these sorts of tasks they could develop/construct a program (assuming it was modelled correctly) to use number cruching random number simulations to determine the "optimum" distance for a given type of blank (taper, stiffness, material, etc, etc) between the guides to minimize slap.

Of course it could also be used to optimize the parallel theme on factors which affect distance and line shoot - the size of guides.
Tom Morgan I recall (quite fuzzily he said) once wrote an article saying that smaller not larger guides were better for shooting. I think the story goes that the small guides caused a funneling sort of effect, reducing line slap. Obviously there are limits to this theory and ultra small guides would not be conducive to a longer shoot, but he was only interested in trout rods, not SW or competition rods which are often called uption to cast/shoot in excess of 120'. Winston rods (of which he was a one time owner) have pretty small stripper guides compared to its competition.

Maybe you should take another stroll down to the local University!

Cheers,
Steve
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by stevel View Post
David,

That's very interesting. I guess with all the simulation software available these days, and an army of geeky PHD student all to willing to take up these sorts of tasks they could develop/construct a program (assuming it was modelled correctly) to use number cruching random number simulations to determine the "optimum" distance for a given type of blank (taper, stiffness, material, etc, etc) between the guides to minimize slap.

Of course it could also be used to optimize the parallel theme on factors which affect distance and line shoot - the size of guides.
Tom Morgan I recall (quite fuzzily he said) once wrote an article saying that smaller not larger guides were better for shooting. I think the story goes that the small guides caused a funneling sort of effect, reducing line slap. Obviously there are limits to this theory and ultra small guides would not be conducive to a longer shoot, but he was only interested in trout rods, not SW or competition rods which are often called uption to cast/shoot in excess of 120'. Winston rods (of which he was a one time owner) have pretty small stripper guides compared to its competition.

Maybe you should take another stroll down to the local University!

Cheers,
Steve
Hi Steve,

I have spoken to Tom on the phone a few times in the period when he was running Winston. He is a lovely man. Unfortunately he doesn't keep so well these days and has Multiple Sclerosis. He still runs his business though. So If you want super expensive river fly rods from 3 up to a 6 weight, his company is the one to look at. America is a huge market and you can specialise like that and get good sales.

There is nothing new in that small guide concept. look at any pre 1970's rods. They all had small guides and single small stripper butt guides. In reality there is no need to have oversize guides on a rod that is going to be used on a river 60ft wide. Any size guides will shoot line that length of line and more.

All rod makers have different opinions on the dynamics of fly rods. It we where all of the same opinion how boring would that be? Rod companies keep trying to reinvent the wheel to boost sales...

I could make a case against small diameter guides and say they increase the contact area with the line and increase friction....

At the turn of the century rods used to have flap rings designed to trap the line to the rod to stop line slipping to make them cast further!

Alexander Grant still holds the true spey cast record distance made in 1896 with a cast of 74yds using a rod with flap rings and no line shoot... We have only came close to that recently with high tech tackle!

I don't think it is possible to tie down rod guide spacing in the way you suggest. There are far too many variables. For example three different moduli of carbon in one section of my rods would need an immensley complicated programme to cover the different strain rates in a matrix of varying taper, infinitely variable wall thickness and a random number of sections. We do have Finite analysis. Having seen that in action, It doesn't tell you more than what can be done empirically - and with a lot less expense.

The great thing about rod making, and great rod makers like Tom is the intuitive interpretation of a concept that transcends definition. Engineers and scientists like things cut and dried - In a format that they can understand. I know that to be true. Engineers and Scientists don't make comfortable bedfellows with rod makers. A hybrid of them all, a touch of ingenuity mixed with an intuitive nature and a very thick skin - makes for a good rod maker though.

Tom sums up well the current scene here and in the U.S.A. I totally agree with him....... "It is important to point out, I believe, that "fast action" has taken on a new meaning in recent years when applied to graphite rods. Most of today's rods have fast action, regardless of their bending pattern, because they are overall stiffer than rods of previous eras. In other words, most of the contemporary rods would have been rated to cast lines one or two sizes heavier in years past. Many of today's anglers started using these stiff, fast rods, not even realizing that there are different designs that may be better suited for their trout angling situations. In my opinion, many anglers of today's generation have never learned the joys of fishing with truly great rods that bend and flex as they should and thereby communicating back to the angler how the rod, line, leader, and fly are performing."


Regards,

David.
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Carbon Fibre Rod Repairs..
Favourite Fly Rods new or old, renovated or repaired.

Rod Building Supplies
Fly Rod Blanks, Guides, Threads, Flex Coat.

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Old 04-03-2010, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
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Hi Steve,

I have spoken to Tom on the phone a few times in the period when he was running Winston. He is a lovely man. Unfortunately he doesn't keep so well these days and has Multiple Sclerosis. He still runs his business though. So If you want super expensive river fly rods from 3 up to a 6 weight, his company is the one to look at. America is a huge market and you can specialise like that and get good sales.

There is nothing new in that small guide concept. look at any pre 1970's rods. They all had small guides and single small stripper butt guides. In reality there is no need to have oversize guides on a rod that is going to be used on a river 60ft wide. Any size guides will shoot line that length of line and more.

All rod makers have different opinions on the dynamics of fly rods. It we where all of the same opinion how boring would that be? Rod companies keep trying to reinvent the wheel to boost sales...

I could make a case against small diameter guides and say they increase the contact area with the line and increase friction....

At the turn of the century rods used to have flap rings designed to trap the line to the rod to stop line slipping to make them cast further!

Alexander Grant still holds the true spey cast record distance made in 1896 with a cast of 74yds using a rod with flap rings and no line shoot... We have only came close to that recently with high tech tackle!

I don't think it is possible to tie down rod guide spacing in the way you suggest. There are far too many variables. For example three different moduli of carbon in one section of my rods would need an immensley complicated programme to cover the different strain rates in a matrix of varying taper, infinitely variable wall thickness and a random number of sections. We do have Finite analysis. Having seen that in action, It doesn't tell you more than what can be done empirically - and with a lot less expense.

The great thing about rod making, and great rod makers like Tom is the intuitive interpretation of a concept that transcends definition. Engineers and scientists like things cut and dried - In a format that they can understand. I know that to be true. Engineers and Scientists don't make comfortable bedfellows with rod makers. A hybrid of them all, a touch of ingenuity mixed with an intuitive nature and a very thick skin - makes for a good rod maker though.

Tom sums up well the current scene here and in the U.S.A. I totally agree with him....... "It is important to point out, I believe, that "fast action" has taken on a new meaning in recent years when applied to graphite rods. Most of today's rods have fast action, regardless of their bending pattern, because they are overall stiffer than rods of previous eras. In other words, most of the contemporary rods would have been rated to cast lines one or two sizes heavier in years past. Many of today's anglers started using these stiff, fast rods, not even realizing that there are different designs that may be better suited for their trout angling situations. In my opinion, many anglers of today's generation have never learned the joys of fishing with truly great rods that bend and flex as they should and thereby communicating back to the angler how the rod, line, leader, and fly are performing."


Regards,

David.
David,

You are right again of course, I suppose my evil technical background poking its head out again! I guess I would have been one of those geeky University students who would have revelled in doing such a project! There's no doubt something like that could be done, but as I've discovered over the past few years, there's just something more valuable - for want of a better word, from an object worked out or created through hand or head, rather than designed/optimised by a computer and finally spat out by one.
For me now only handmade rods (be that cane or carbon) or bench reels will do.

Regards,
Steve
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