Hi,
I have only started fly fishing 6 months ago and managed to snap 2 rods!
One of the rods was Bruce & Walker Century Trout 11.3' #4-6. I have asked B&W for a replacement top end (thinner part). But they don't have a spare part because this rod was made in 80's. So they quoted me for around £200!!

I am sure there should be way of fixing this myself. Any help and advice appreciated.

Thanks for looking.

Having had B&W replace a tip on a very similar possibly older rod i think you would find it would be around £120 .
Having said that would be worth trewling the second hand dealers and get a similar rod complete for well under £200 ,.
Those 11.3 are a rather specialist rod ,what are you using it for ,mine gets used on drifting boats and for big river wets and bugging ,its heavy and old fashioned ,possibly not something I would buy if just starting over!

__________________
Andy Wren
Winter grayling taking a year off !
Claret not just a great dubbing colour!

I've put a "ferrule" into a clean snap before but it while that works fine near the butt it wouldn't be my choice for a snap in the tip section. David Norwich makes new sections for rods.

I keep rod sections for repairing rods by finding a close fit with the internal tapers and care fully epoxying the piece in and then fitting the top whipping either side of the break to prevent splitting I use Kevlar thread for strength
I have repaired a lot of rods like this with out problems , easker1

I wouldnt recommend putting the ferrule inside the rod, but use it as a sleeve over the two broken sections....

Find an old tip section from a rod with a lower modulus than the tip your fixing (in a nutshell a softer rod) You might be able to get a scrap one from you local friendly tackle dealer.

Cut off a 30mm (ish) section off it at a point where the internal diameter is just large enough so it will just push over the end of the rod where it broke to make a spogot. it wants to be a good tight fit if poss.

Then push the broken off tip into the other end of the spigot so that the junction between the two broken sections is in the middle of the spigot. You might need to take a bit of wet and dry to the parts of the joint to get a nice sound fit - but this is fine as long as your only removing varnish/laquer, and not disturbung the carbon of the blank.

When putting it all together, then dab a TINY amount of araldite inside and at each end of the spigot to hold it al in place.

(Before putting it all together you can slim the spigot down to the carbon with wet and dry to give it a slimmer profile if your brave.

Now, tightly whip the whole joint, and continue about a 1/4" of wraps before and after the spigot, then varnish to seal.

You would hardly even know its there unless you studied the blank closely.
If your even luckier, if its near a ring, you can sometimes move the ring to sit over the join, in wich case the whippings would look like the ones for the ring.

Graeme

I would go with easker1's method. Have used this myself and have never had a problem.

Paul

And I would go with mine because its how most pros do it.

Graeme

Sorry rover I have repaired rods like this since carbon fibre first appeared in the 70's I have only ever had one failure, I had a summer side line repairing rods like this , while I was gillying, the guests would get a rod back over night
easker1

Im sure you have, but prey tell how you are going to find a suitable section of old rod to fit inside a broken section near to the tip end, where the OD is probably no more than 2mm and therefore the ID obviously sub 1mm ?????? Hence the need to fit a ferrule over the two sections.

Graeme

Only had to repair one, fortunately. A GRXi 10' 6/7# which snapped mid top section. I cut a section out, which included a guide, and sleeved the tip inside using a smidge of epoxy and some kevlar whipping. I've now got something 9' 8" long feeling more like a 7# and 100% better than the original. I flatly refused to pay the £40 Hardy's wanted under their warranty, mainly because of their bladdy attitude over the phone. Sounds like Easker1's method, and it worked just fine.