I've used the CA method for a couple of years, perhaps only 9 or 10 seats produced, 4 now in use and 5 or 6 sample pieces.
I fished yesterday with a friend who was using a St Croix LE which I built about a year ago using the spacer pictured below, the spacer looks mint, without any damage at all (a carefull angler perhaps), the one point of note is the timber is getting lighter and actually looking better now than when produced, this may not be the case for all woods and may spoil the look of others, I really can't be sure as I've not tested every hardwood in the real british weather.
My own 9ft 3wt Z-axis is fitted with a Cocobola seat which is doing really well after about 10 months fishing, the finished spacer IMHO looks much better than any other available product, Strubble cannot afford to spend 3 or 4 hours on a $10 product.
I drill the timber out to 10mm which is ok for most 3/4/5wt's.
Machice down, making the finished tube slightly undersized.
Apply the CA, I use a piece of kitchen type paper roll as it contains a chemical which cures the "thin" CA very quickly, once sealed I use the medium CA.
Once the CA is built up slightly oversized, start maching down, 400, 1000, then go over to micromesh 2000, 4000, 8000 and polish up with 12,000 + T cut, the final shine is done with the reverse side of the 12,0000 MM.
Then I machine down the thread barrel section and cut the tube down to the required length, apply the thin CA to the thread barrel section, and cut end, just a very thin coat to seal, also do a few shallow grooves in the TB section to help the epoxy bond (before the final CA sealing is done).
You do need micromesh,
Watch yours eyes while applying CA on a lathe, Glasses are a MUST HAVE.
Get some cheap kitchen rolls.
Get a can of CA curing agent, a quick spray will send it off in seconds.
You will need a good micrometer.
Don't worry if it looks iffy or is a bit undersized, just add more CA and re finish.
Do not over machice the CA as you will build up enough heat to melt it, if that happens the job is probably beyond saving.
It is worth the effort, you can get a glass like finish.
The pictures do not do the spacer real justice.
A bit brief, but it would take hours to go through it step by step, a google should fill in any missing spaces, good luck.
Actual timber used iirc was Paduk (shown on the right)
An early attempt, prior to sanding / finishing, It's easier to complete the spacer prior to cutting the thread tube to size.
Regards, Gary B..
Super glue finish
Linear Mode
