Hi,

I have a Hardy Graphite "Fred Buller" Drifter 11ft 7wt. which is a nice rod. It has provision for a fighting butt (i.e. a 9.5mm hole in the existing reel section but nothing fitted.)

My lad has given me the butt section of a gash 9ft 7wt rod and I intend to use the cork handle and part of the blank to make a fighting butt for the Hardy ....longish, so that I can cast 2 handed if necessary (the Hardy is quite heavy as a single hander).

Before I can use the gash butt section I would ideally like to remove the reel seat (other than by sawing it off - if possible !!!! - so that I could re-use it in the future.) Is this feasable and if so, how ?

Nigel

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If it doesn't fit, use a bigger hammer!

The ultra cautious application of heat may well be the way to go but it strikes me that it's an unreasonable risk to take ie ruining a perfectly good rod just to be able to attach a 'gash' (I presume this means 'cr*p') fighting butt.

Why don't you just contact Hardy's and get the proper one for the rod?

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Be very carefull you could cracking the blank.
It all depends on what and how it glued on ( at your own risk) try the hot water first and see if it moves


Gary

Nicho Bamboo Rod Co

Hi Guys,

Thanks for your replies - much appreciated. I contacted Hardy re the butt - they just said they didn't make them anymore (i.e. not interested !) !!!!

I have decided I am going to have to saw off the reel seat, insert the rod shaft about 7 - 8" into the base of the Hardy rod and because the O.D. of the blank is smaller than the I.D. of the Hardy, build it up with masking tape and then glue it inside as a permanent fighting butt (7" long). This will enable me to use the Hardy rod as a DH, otherwise it is never going to get used !

Nigel

__________________
If it doesn't fit, use a bigger hammer!

Further to my last, sawed off the reel seat on the 'gash' rod. Cut the blank off 7 1/2" above the winding check, added masking tape wraps in three places and slid up inside the Hardy reel seat / rod.

It was a snug friction fit so before gluing took it for an outing. Cast double handed all afternoon and it did not move at all ! Based on this I will not bother glueing it !

Nigel

__________________
If it doesn't fit, use a bigger hammer!

You must glue it mate, as the masking tape in time will move believe me. Masking tape is not made to be permanent heat, solvents and water will bring it off, remember it’s made for decorators to remove easily
Araldite standard epoxy is what you need to use.
When you wrap the blank with tape to build it up to the correct diameter leave an open spiral on the tape wraps so you epoxy can grip the blank. Depending on the gap you may need to put a lot of glue in there but it’s a must, In the old days most rod makers used string to build or bridge a gap it makes for a better job.
Once the string it glued to the blank you will never get it off and it’s not affected by any of the above.


Gary

Nicho Bamboo Rod Co

Gary,

Thanks for your advice, much appreciated. Regarding the masking tape / push in scenario.....could I not just periodically renew the tape whenever it starts to get slack ? If I glue it in there is no way back !!!!!

Nigel

__________________
If it doesn't fit, use a bigger hammer!

Well Yes I dont see why not if thats what you want ?

I wish you well with the rod really hope it works out for you.


Cheers Gary

Use electrical tape instead

I think that would be a better way to go

Masking tape if it gets wet will swell and probably jam in the section, electrical tape would be better IMO

Thanks for posting the picture and helping the guy out


gary