Hi all,
I'm no chemist, but i believe that Meths, acetone and Isopropyl alcohol are all variants of the above.
I'm asking as I've read that before whipping guides on you need to clean with DNA to prevent fish eye.
Is it absolutely necessary before, or can you do it after, or before and after?
If after do you clean the whippings, will DNA damage thread?

Also read that acetone is too strong, what about Industrial meths (70%)?
Sorry alot of questions, but don't what to whip on guides and found I've used wrong formulation of DNA and buggered the blank.

Cheers

Don't use Acetone for this, it's fierce and can leave a whitish residue where moisture was once present.

98%, or stronger, IMS will be kinder to your rod. iso-Propanol is also good.

I used to work with these solvents... hope it helps.

__________________


Save the softmouth trout

I am a chemist and I can confirm that Acetone is most definitely not a denatured alcohol! Personally, I've never degreased the blank before whipping and I've never had problems with the finish. Having said that, I'm not what you would call a perfectionist!

A quick rub down with meths certainly won't do any harm as it will have evapourated by the time you start to do the whippings. Meths won't damage nylon or silk, but make sure that if you do wipe the whippings before finishing you let it dry thoroughly.

__________________
Quot homines, tot sententiae. My Blog

denatured alcohol is a very specific thing. It is ethanol that has had an 'impurity' added to it (i.e. denatured) so that it cannot be drunken safely. Methylated spirits, white spirits, acetone, IPA, and methanol are all NOT denatured alcohol. Only ethanol is denatured alcohol.

Sometimes methanol is the denaturing agent, but not usually. It used to be benzene and derivatives, but because of safety issues (benzene is a major carcinogen) other materials are not used. Bitrex is one because of the bad taste (bitter) at low concentrations.

As for your use here, ethanol or IPA both work pretty well. Wipe down the blank before wrapping if you think there is some oil, fingerprints, or something else on the blank. It isn't necessary all the time though. For the threads, just keep them clean in the first place. If you use dirty or sweaty hands and touch the thread, takeoff a full layer from the spool until you're down to clean stuff. Better yet, wash your hands before you start wrapping.

Thanks
Rick

Shedhead,
Contact this guy who will supply what you need.

Mark Finney in Heeley on 0114 2588399

TC

__________________
Used to be an angry young man, now I'm an angry old man.

You can bomb people into pieces but you cant bomb them into peace.

I'm asking as I've read that before whipping guides on you need to clean with DNA to prevent fish eye.


Hi
Regarding fish eyes forming in the whippings is very unlikely the only time you would have a problem with those is if the finish or the rod blank has been contaminated in some way with silicon
Silicons are the very devil himself to remove
Dont poilish your rod with them, stick with a wax polish which can be very easily removed if you need too

Gary.

In 40 years of fairly persistent rodbuilding the only thing I ever had any problems with is Silicone contamination - and that is usually on reringing jobs - you don't know before you get one exactly what the punter has been using to float his line or flies .

I learnt to wipe down those de ringed blanks with straight cellulose thinners and never experienced further troubles after .

On new stuff - I've never ever cleaned off the whips - but if I've handled Silicones and Tying Waxes I don't whip any more that day !

Best wishes

Steve P

Has anyone tried this stuff mixed in with the epoxy?.
Works well with standard varnish coats
Could be worth a try we use it all the time in furniture restoration trade
Even thinners does not always remove silicons in timber because it gets fixed deep in the grain of the wood ,
French polish is not effected by silicon to the same extent.

Furniture polish can also contain silicon and also the stuff for your fly lines like (ArmorAll)

tradehttp://shop.thecoatingstore.com/Fisheye-and-Crater-Eliminator-AFE52-HP.htm

it works by adding silicon to the finish making it compatible used by the auto trade