My dad's just told me that he's just order the few bits for my rod components I'm getting for Xmas.

Can't wait for it.

Anyways here's a list of what I have ordered and what I think I can beg, borrow or steal from my dad.

St Croix Sciv/ii 10' 6 weight blank, gloss burgundy
American tackle burl rose wood fighting butt
Aluminium double lock nut reel seat - titanium
A. Tackle Reversed full wells handle burl rose wood trims
Dimpled silver aluminium winding check
chrome loop style hook keeper
Fuji concept alconite guides ktag 5xsz6
5 x sz 7
1xsz8
1xsz10
Fuji alconite concept klag 1xsz12
1xsz16
Fuji alconite tip cfat sz 6 4.0 bore

---------- Post added at 03:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:15 PM ----------

Supply Kit - 24ml ProKöte, 2oz ProBönd, 2x100yd ProWrap, Tape, Tools
ProKote Medium Build Thread Finish - 24ml Syringes
ProWrap Nylon 100yd Size A - 862 Twilight Black
ProWrap Metallic 100yd Size A - 9130 Gold
Masking Tape - 1/2" x 60 yd
Masking Tape - 1/4" x 60 yd
Thread Burnishing Tool
Ferrule Cement 4" Stick
FC China Marker - White
Prowrap colorfast size a silver shiner
Prowrap metallic size a silver
Prowrap metallic size a Gold leaf
Steel vernier calipers

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Sounds like a good start to me, the ProKote does need to turn a bit longer and takes more time between coats.. But you get a lot longer potlife for that, so i think you have got the best finish to work with for a first build..

Be ready to get addicted because rodbuilding is almost as much fun as fishing..

Good luck unwrapping that one....

Jerry

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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

Looks like a cracking gift and first time build! Just remember to practice with the Prokote, its difficult to get right first time. Good luck

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Make Tea not War.

guide foot adhesive
U-40 Cork Seal - 2 oz.
ATC Lasercut Decals - Rainbow Trout
ATC Lasercut Decals - Brown Trout
Tools - thread pick burniser and clips

Rod bag
drying motor

---------- Post added at 05:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:38 PM ----------

Whats best to clean the rod blank before working with it, says somewhere denature alcohol but my da says methyl spirits should work the same way?

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I only use denatured alcohol after fitting the handle but if i work fast, which i usually do, i don't even bother and remove the left over epoxy from the blank with cotton. Other then that i clean the blank with a cotton cloth before i start.. Wash my hands and start wrapping.. The only thing you have to be carefull with is silicone other then that no cleaning required. Well for me that is, maybe someone else might have another opinion..

Jerry.

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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

I know the part aren't here, their on a 2 week backorder and wouldn't be here by xmas.

But were do you on a rod have been watching video and some say to start at the butt and work to the tip top wereas other say to start with the top and do the handle last?


AL

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Well i suppose it doesn't really matter were you start, but i always start with the tiptop. Simply because it is easier ligning up the guides looking from the back of the rod and gradually make bigger wraps going too the handle..

Having stuff backordered on you will happen quite often gets really annoying at times.. I make sure i have enough components before ordering the blank.. But now i'm also waiting on REC to ship my new seat so i can finish up my new rod..

Jerry

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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

Here's where I bought my de-natured alcohol. great people to deal with and very helpful.
TC

Mark Finney Heeley on 0114 2588399.

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Used to be an angry young man, now I'm an angry old man.

You can bomb people into pieces but you cant bomb them into peace.

TC, we think we've it sorted when I can get back into the shed, the locks frozen solid, there may be some acetone or mineralised spirits that should do the job.

AL

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I assume you're talking about the guides when you're saying tip or butt first. In that case it doesn't matter. I'd suggest starting at the butt and working to the tip just because butt guides are easier to wrap. It is easy to get into a groove if you start with the easy ones. Then when you get to the hard ones they seem easy because you've already done a dozen wraps that day.

That should be a great rod. Keep the wraps short on the guides and the epoxy thin (keep the weight down). The SCII blanks (you have a SCII, not a SCIV) are an intermediate modulus graphite so their recovery rates aren't super fast when you bog them down with more weight than necessary. However, that should be an incredible fishing blank for big streams and medium stillwaters. That is a great blank for steelhead in the great lakes and big water nymphing.

You probably won't need all 14 guides you've ordered and you're better off not to use them if possible. Realistically you'll need 10-11 on that specific blank. I'd go with the #12, then straight to the 7's and 6's. In fact if it isn't too late I'd swap all of the 7's for 6's as well and run straight 6's from the stripper to the top. Only reason I'd go with 7's is if I were fishing in cold weather where freezing is an issue.

good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks,
Rick

Thanks,
Rick