Now i havnt built a rod for a few years now , but awaiting my tip section which the wife broke off my harrison ballista 10ft 2pc 6# to arrive, now im one for try all the ideas going to get a rod to perform alittle better, extra stripper guide ,single leg alconites and Splining the blank, now in this day and age ,do we need to? and can someone just remind me were i put my guides as ive forgotten, fink its on the spline sorry old age and too much medication going through the systemalso, were the top section broke before, about 3inches up from the female furrel i had positioned a guide, would it be prudent to take a whip up from the furrel to and over the guide, for added strenth in that area?, just dont like the idea of a long whip of around 4in, had originally had a 2in whip at the furrel then a gap to the guide?. cheers gaz

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I am also new to rod building Gaz but i am told for fixed spools position the guides on the spline and for multipliers position the guides on the other side of the spline.

Sounds like you should wrapp thread all the way to the first eye if thats where it broken the last time.


Munro

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I spine or spline when the rod is straight if not i will build on the straightest axis and sp(l)ine when the rod is straight again, i'm talking four piece rods.. I know almost all the big brands build on the straightest axis nowadays but if it was me i would always sp(l)ine.. A taming guide is supposed to help shoot for distance i tried it a couple of times but i hated the look and never really noticed more shoot.. A four inch wrap is a bit long but it is a ten footer so i think it will look ok, i don't know if it gives extra strength to the female ferrule.

hope i helped

Jerry

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When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

I agree with Dutchy. Building on or opposite the spine helps the tip to track truly and better utilises the power potential in the blank, especially if the spine is pronounced.

A good tip is to fix the tiptop with hotmelt on the spine, then check it by clamping the butt of the section to a table with the tip ring downward. Flex and release the tip in a vertical line. It should oscillate in the vertical plane if correctly on the spine. If not the bounce will gradually morph to describe a circle or ellipse

As to your guide wrap, you could test moving the guide onto or closer to the ferrule with his technique:
http://www.rodbuilding.org/library/staticguide.html

If it worked to place a guide 1-2" from the end of the female ferrule it would reinforce it and save you a wrap

I'd ring the spine if I were you, IMO the rod recovers faster if you do it that way. appareently some manufacturers are now saying it makes no odds where you ring it. Therefore..if you ring the spine you can't be wrong, huh!

Regarding the whipping of the ferrule taking in the ring, why not do it. Its a fishing tool you are making not a show piece.

Cheeers chappies

i dont think theres a problem with the guide spacing as i use more guides on my rods than most would ,certainly compared to snakes, i like a good fighting arc, nice a clean, it wouldnt muck up the rod cosmetically if i moved the guide down an inch , but dont fancy playing with the butt section and moving a guide up abit, to keep everything in nice order will take a fresh look at it when the top arrives and make a decission, isnt there some thought on putting the guides on the spline"spine" gives you more shooting power or is that recovery power Gaz

---------- Post added at 11:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:07 PM ----------

Unfortunatley even Harrison blanks arnt designed for women to shut in gates gaz might just put some lose wraps in and then tight ones make it look abit prettier, but add alittle extra strenth, but ive hammered the rod with no effectonly a women could break itgaz

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If in doubt, get the montys out

Intelligence is relative to your environment