whilst waiting to buy my day ticket in the lodge ive heard anglers talking about the wet cel being the best method on certain days.is this a warm weather tactic, and if so how and when would you use it .ive seen wet cel lines they look quite expensive.is there a cheaper alternative?also i only fish from the bank,so a set up for a novice would be welcome

Skip.they just mean that it would be a good day for the sinking line ie:- you get a wet cell 1.11.111.1v .v.v1(though why they could not say 1.2.3.4.5.6.)these numbers refer to the sink rate 1 is slow ,6 is fast.
airflo:-di3=3"per second
di5=5" ' '
di7=7" ' '
di8=8" ' '

jim

__________________
The Fishermans Friend is the Flirty Fly,Fickle Food for Fleeting Fish.

As a beginner, you are probably better off sticking to standard lines and techniques at first. The Wet Cel lines from scientific anglers are full sinkers.

You can find info here;
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...roSink/WetCel/

These can be hard to handle for a beginner. It is better to start off with a floater, and maybe an intermediate, ( neutral density), until you know what is going on.

The method referred to is the "count down" method. The sinking line ( it does not have to be a wet cel, other makers such as airflo etc make good sinking lines, Avoid the floaters though, they are terrible! ) is cast out, and one begins to count.

If one gets a strike or a fish after counting to say "thirty" ( use "second" counting, "one hundred, two hundred, three hundred etc) then one knows at what depth the fish are taking. One still does not know the actual depth, ( although this can be roughly calculated by using the sink rate of the line, in the case of a wet cel professional this varies between 1.25 and 8.00 ips [inches per second] depending on the line in use.

The point is, one knows that the fish are at a certain depth, and can repeatedly fish this depth, simply by casting and counting until the retrieve is commenced.

For an 8.00 IPS line, after thirty seconds the line has ( theoretically) sunk 30secs * 8.00 ips = 240 inches or exactly twenty feet. Other factors also affect this. Distance cast, backing drag, whether the line is density compensated, etc.

TL
MC

thanks guys i think ill stick to a floater.i do have a cortland 333 int i used about five years ago once ,do you still think itll be ok to use it seems ok

just give it a wash with a tiny (and i mean tiny)amout of detergent,and it will be fine.

jim

__________________
The Fishermans Friend is the Flirty Fly,Fickle Food for Fleeting Fish.

Yes it should be still fine to use but as Jim said wash and then dry but when you have done this be sure to check for cracks in the line as these may snap and the line is away.

May sound stupid but it has happened to me in the past so just warning you.


Tightlines....Martin

__________________
Remember to keep yourself alive. There is nothing more important than that - Tupac Shakur

martin ,dare i ask what make of line it was.

jim

__________________
The Fishermans Friend is the Flirty Fly,Fickle Food for Fleeting Fish.

Cannot remember as it was my grandads old reel and he does not know the make of line but i have now upgraded my gear and the airflo stuff is amazing no question about it i love it.

Martin....P.S i know what you were thinking Jim ive got you sussed.

__________________
Remember to keep yourself alive. There is nothing more important than that - Tupac Shakur

You will find that a sinking line, say a Wet 2 or a Wet 4 is easier to cast and shoot that a floating line. It has the same weight, but is thinner. So it has less air resistance.

The only thing to beware of is that, unlike a floating line, you can't "lift" the whole line and recast in one movement. You will be trying to lift all the weight of water directly above the line!

You must either recover the line by fishing out your cast or if you want to take change direction then roll cast the line to the surface before lifting and casting the line.

That is perfectly true, but not for a beginner who is used to casting a floating line. The first time beginners try to cast Hi-D lines, they invariably fail miserably. Usually they wrap it ( quite painfully!) around their neck and ears, and are lucky to avoid getting a fly in the face or worse.

Because the lines have very considerably less air resistance, ( actually "surface drag"), and the mass is of course more concentrated, they move a lot faster. This requires alteration of power application and cast timing. It has to be a lot faster! Without increasing power. This is very difficult for most beginners.

Also, the fact that one can not simply lift a sunken line into a back-cast, has nothing to do with the weight of the water, but is a result of fluid resistance ( also known as "surface drag") . The fluid resistance of water is many times greater than that of air, and of course is directly proportional to the speed with which the line is pulled through it. If you pull the line slowly, there is little resistance. If you try and haul it up at the speed necessary to commence a back-cast, the resistance is massive, and will likely break your rod.

http://www.phy.cmich.edu/people/andy...s/Chapter9.htm

Further, a sinking line of the same weight as a floater loads the rod more, as a direct result of it moving faster. The higher line speed results in greater momentum. This can be very difficult indeed for a beginner to compensate.

EDIT: Also, when roll casting a Hi-D head up to the surface, the timing needs to be impeccable, as the line starts to sink again as soon as the roll cast completes. This applies even if you manage to aerialise the line with the roll cast. If you mistime this, you have the same problem as if you tried lifting directly. This will also break your rod. It makes no difference whether the line is ten feet down, or only one inch. This does not apply to floating ( plastic) lines, as they are buoyant, displace water, and float "in" the surface film. Once they start to move and the grip of surface tension is relieved, there is no problem in accelerating them further.

Trying to lift a SUNK floating line, or indeed an intermediate, directly into a back-cast, results in identical problems.

TL
MC