Guy's,

I see many of you like the Barrio and Pirate fly line for casting, but how well do they float?

One of the main things with the better (more costly) fly lines is most now have a loop in the tip, made from the line itself. This eliminates water creep up into the lines core, and then they sink at the tip.

Heavy braided loops make the matter worse, (however the Roman Moser double braided loops are a little better) but even these sink after time!

If you want to fish nymphs or dries, a sinking tip is not what you need! You need a high floating tip, for bite registration. Not all fish caught give a tug on the line (nice when they do though!!!!)

Cheap fly lines may cast well but that's not all you need them for?

I would be interested in how well they float after a few hard trips out?

Thanks.

I use the Barrio Outcast and feel it floats high and the tip stays up high also
I am a big buzzer lad so as you can guess i like to see my tip sitting high at all times. I use to use a cortland 444 peach floater but the Outcast is a better line in my opinion and its a bonus that its also alot cheaper!
Just my thoughts anyway

Seal the end of the line before you fit the loop and there's no problem. I use Roman Moser loops and while their light weight undoubtedly help I must admit if the line is 'tipped' before applying I've never had a problem. Couple that to the exceptional performance of these lines for the money leaves me wondering why pay more for a brand that won't necessarily perform any better, indeed if you take the Rio gold as an example, a whole lot worse.

I'd rather have a line that floats well and has little or no memory rather than one that "casts well," that's usually down to the caster anyway - any-one recommend one?

Also an intermediate that sinks uniformly and not belly first or belly last. It must be responsible for many missed takes.

You'd think the manufacturers would have cracked it by now, it isn't exactly "high tech" stuff - or is it?

__________________
*
How poor a thing, sometimes I find,
Will captivate a greedy mind - Isaac Walton.

~~*~~~~~
*****©(

there are of course lines that cast well and dont suffer coiling, i'd bin ones that dont, tips that have taken a hammering will eventually sink, worst culprit is a nice hingy parting in the coating behind an un cared for braided loop, horrible things, take longer farting about than a knot,
dip a cut tip in sally hansens nail stuff and grease the baby up.

have a look at the reviews

http://www.flyforums.co.uk/tackle-re...fly-lines.html

http://www.flyforums.co.uk/tackle-re...tml#post662160

__________________
WHEN YOU LEAVE THE RIVER, TAKE NOTHING, AND LEAVE ONLY FOOTPRINT'S!!!

THA CAN TELL A YORKSHIREMAN ,BUT THA CAN'T TELL HIM MUCH !!

There is only one way to manufacture an intermediate that sinks uniformly and that is to make it level .

The core is one uniform density and the weighting medium is in the PVC or whatever coating applied and cooked onto it . With a taper the thickest bit sinks first because that's where the weight is - in the plastic .

Now you never notice this with a medium/fast sinker because the tip is dense enought to go straight through the surface even if slightly sticky from human grease off your hands . The belly still sinks fastest and you are blissfully unaware of this because you can't see what is happening below the surface ! And if you want confirmation go test it at a swimming baths ( you'll have to ask permission first ) like what I did a very long time ago !

You notice it straight away with an intermediate because it will stick in the surface at the tip and behind the belly . Best cure - clean and degrease it - and if you ever find out how to make a tapered uniform sinking speed line of any density - without using a wire loaded core ( illegal under international rules ) - patent it quick and then let the lines manufacturers know !

Oh and if you ever find a way of putting a loop in PVC and weld it and the resulting loop is i) Small and neat ii) Same breaking strain as the rest of the flyline and iii) Can't easily be pulled apart down the shear line iv) Is cheap - patent that too and let them know quick !

Practical solution discovered by Arthur Cove about 45 years ago - needle knot a fixed yard of 20lb mono to the end of your floater - apply Red Mucilin to the last six feet to the tip of your flyline so it seals and floats ! Not that difficult !

Best wishes

Steve P

That's what I used to do years ago, until the dreaded braided loop became available. I've since gone back to the mono, but this time 12 lb fluorocarbon needle knotted.

The problem with the braided loop is that I am pretty sure that trout attack it.

---------- Post added at 07:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:11 AM ----------

Probably the answer is to dress a fly that looks like a braided loop. This will be in addition to a dry fly I have caught several fish on, it's called a Thingamabobby!

With respect Steve, I have several lines with the manufactures loops, and have never had any problems, BUT all are in the smaller line sizes 6# and below.

I know people have had problems with the larger sizes (they seem to pull apart at around 20lb) But in the smaller sizes they are perfect for my style of fishing!

For me any braided loop adds weight, and regardless of sealing the ends with glue, all sink after time. I must have a high floating tip, or I lose confidence in my ability to see takes.

I like the idea of a nail knot, and have used this method for a number of years, with a tapered leader and loop. Cutting back each time I change the mid-section and tippet. But it is so final, and if you want to change to a fluo leader system your screwed.

You can only speak about what you know, and line loops work well for my kind of fishing. Others are telling it from their own experience and knowledge.

Thanks.

Yep, the Barrio, floats well and has no memory, even in freezing conditions.

Casts rather well as well and turns over nicely but that's only a secondary concideration isn't it.

Mike