Today i striped back 2" off the tip of my line. I then pushed a taperd leader up
inside the braided core and whiped the end of it and put a dab of aquasure at the but end. It is the exact diameter of the line tip and also the exact same as a braiaded loop join. the main difrence being that the line and leader are now just one contiuation in diameter as if it was a midge tip. I then put a 1.5mm joining ring on it so i dont keep losing bits of it. Can anyone forsee any problems with this method. Any coment,s ideas welcome.

sounds like a really good idea there. I cant see there being any problems but i would have used a dab of super glue instead of using aquasure tho fly fishing supper glue.
Like your idea

I too like your idea,theres nothing worse than a horible lumpy connecter coming rattling through the rod rings as you go to net a fish! Especially on a light line outfit. Like fish stalker i would use a superglue,something like Locktight not a poundland special! On my small stream and brook outfits,i push a needle into the end of the fly line-remove needle,then insert roughend end of leader butt with a smear of locktight into the hole. This provided it is tested with a good hard pull has never let me down,even when stuck up trees! Comes through the guides lovely too.

yes that,s how i thought of this. i used to use a needle threader to pull the core inside it,s self it gave me a small neat loop. the reason i used aquasure was to keep the suppleness there i think superglue goes to hard. but when say i used it i only mean aprox
2mm just to get the transition between the tip end and the leader start. that anoying little bit that you can,t get 100% when it,s pulled tight.

I'm just surprised that the butt of a tapered leader is the same diameter as the tip of the fly line. Normally they are too thin and I overcome this by using a polyleader. I'm assuming you are talking about a mono leader? I can only think you are using a very light fly line and/or a very heavy leader? I'd be curious as to what line and leader you use.

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'If you're doing things the way you've always done them then you're probably doing them wrong'

it,s a 7 wt line and a taperd leader down to 5 lb and it,s the core of the line not the tip the two together make the diameter
of the tip

Hi'. Imago. The butt of a tapered leader may not be the same diameter as that of the end of the fly line, but the diameter of the leader plus the surrounding core of the fly line will be significantly thicker, and could match the line more closely. If it didn't, then whipping the connection at the junction could increase the diameter to whatever you wanted it to be. The important thing is to avoid a 'step' in diameters actually on the plastic coating, because that inevitably leads to a crack developing.
On another thread, I suggested that the introduction of a tapered leader up the core of a fly line might be achieved if one of the mono manufacturers made a tapered leader with a short reverse taper at its thickest point -- about an inch or two -- as that might be easier to fix within the fly line braided core. The first manufacturer to do that would eliminate the need for a clumsy loop-to-loop, and make a lot of money in the process. TerryC .
PS I don't expect any 'Royalties' if it happens. Wink, wink.

Have a look here.

On The Water - Warmwater Fly Tyer - by Ward Bean

Jim

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The Fishermans Friend is the Flirty Fly,Fickle Food for Fleeting Fish.

Thanks 3lb grayling I think that,s a better idea becuase the braided piece is protected ?
top notch thanks Alan......3lb grayling 16.00 pm i gave that method a try. And it is absolutely briliant thanks again.

Hi', Jim, and thanks for the link. I tried that method, when it was discussed a few weeks back.That was when John Grey came on with his loop connection idea. The trouble with both, I think, is that the line will crack, because the plastic has been pierced and distorted by pushing a needle through it.
I've done needle knots, nail knots, whipped loops, plastic cast connectors and braided loops, and every one of those methods has resulted in a cracked plastic coating, sooner or later. Maybe that is my fault.
Exposing the braided core, and feeding a line inside it wasn't possible when I tried it about tweny years ago, maybe more, because the lines I played with appeared to have a solid braided core. In trying to get a needle to open a passage down the core of one line, I stuck a darning needle in my thumb. Once was enough for me.
It seems that some of the modern plastic coated lines have hollow braided cores. Alan's line obviously had, because we discussed this when he pm'd me a description of a loop attachment that he had made up, and I immediately thought that he was on to a winner, because there wasn't a 'step' on the plastic coating, no sudden change in its diameter, no constricting turns of monofil strangling the line and cutting into the plastic.
As I said on a previous post on this thread, the leader up the core should swell its diameter to something a bit nearer that of the original plastic coating. The leader is inside a suitable length of braided core, exposed by removing the coating. To make the secured leader inside the core, plus its coverage by the core, match the original diameter, a fine whipping could be laid on, butting up against the end of the palstic coating. No step in the transition from plastic to leader, as it could be whipped to a pretty exact fit.
That is what I'll be doing when I get around to playing with the idea again.
Of course, a fixed leader is not as versatile as a fitted loop; but it will look a lot neater and pass through the rings more smoothly than a loop, and should be OK for a dry fly leader. Alan's original loop attachment should be ideal for swapping wet fly leaders around, or dry fly leaders if the loops don't bother you. TC
PS Only a trial would tell if the tapered leader idea resulted in a hinge forming at the point where the plastic core ended and the whipping over the braided core began.