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Old 11-10-2009, 12:38 AM
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Default Anyone heard of tuning a line ?

tuning a line anyone heard of it. namely cutting off the piece of line that does not turn over ?
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:52 AM
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Seen the description in an oldish book -trimming a few inches to a foot from the front taper - never done it.
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:06 AM
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On the other hand .... you could of course try trimming a few inches off your rod ..... or perhaps your arm even?
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Old 11-10-2009, 08:47 AM
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Only time I've ever heard of tuning or trimming a line is when setting up shooting heads, generally meaning cutting back your head length a bit at a time until you find the right balance between that and the running line when it's arialised.

Steve
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Old 11-10-2009, 09:11 AM
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Yes, I've heard of it, tuning a line, it doesn't have to be a fly line, but a fly line works best, it's called a catalina, you stretch it across a cat's a*se and play it with your tongue.....................

Last edited by grayling; 11-10-2009 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 11-10-2009, 09:34 AM
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On a more serious note ..... you need to establish why the end of your line isn't turning over.

There could be a 'mechanical' reason for it to hinge - has the line coating been compromised near the tip, a cut or a crack? Have you sealed the end of your line or is water entering the core by capillary action?

However, is it your casting? Does the line tip consistently turn back on itself or to one side?

Whatever the cause I'd be very reluctant to start chopping bits of as fly lines aren't the length they are by accident - they have gone through a design process.
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Old 11-10-2009, 09:46 AM
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absolute barmy to start chopping bits off lines, unless of course, you wish to make a shooting head, then chop a double taper in half, there you have two shooting heads as lighthouse has said a lot of thought has gone into designing fly lines, I don't think the average angler has the know how to improve them.....
There is another way of dealing with this, you can buy a line with a shorter front taper, one that suits your casting, I do think anglers get to involved in these things, I just get on with the fishing and leave all the technical stuff to the experts, I adapt myself to suit the tackle I use, it's worked for me over the years.............
I've heard folk say my rod isn't loading very well, should I use a heavier line, WHY, just arialise more line, that will give you the extra weight to load the rod, improvisation.............!!! To go from a #6 line to a #7, weight wise, to only need to arialise another yard or so.

Last edited by grayling; 11-10-2009 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 11-10-2009, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lighthouse View Post
On a more serious note ..... you need to establish why the end of your line isn't turning over.

There could be a 'mechanical' reason for it to hinge - has the line coating been compromised near the tip, a cut or a crack? Have you sealed the end of your line or is water entering the core by capillary action?

However, is it your casting? Does the line tip consistently turn back on itself or to one side?

Whatever the cause I'd be very reluctant to start chopping bits of as fly lines aren't the length they are by accident - they have gone through a design process.
Thank you for your concern lighthouse but this bullsht story started when i started fly fishing. I was always out practising, to begin with i had problems, one of which the line tip would fall to the side instead of lying strait out. someone i know who i,ll not mention due to him being humiliated considering he,s fished for 30 yrs. he told me to cut it off and proceeded to tell me that you had to tune a line. even with little knowlage i was dubious, now nearly 3 yrs on it seems ridiculously stupid. I now know line tapers are made to exacting standards. i,m now going to email this page to him. lol
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Old 11-10-2009, 03:33 PM
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Hi', the only line tuning I've heard of was that of matching a half-line to a rod when making a shooting-head, as has already been mentioned. Not so long ago, shooting heads could be bought as such, but some anglers made their own. The four or five that I own were all made from DT mill ends of 9 and 10Wt, floating and intermediate. They were cut in half, then shortened in the belly until they loaded up my 8 and 9Wt, 9ft 6in rods. I would never dream of cutting back the tip of a fly line. When I write, 'Half line', it was nearer 12 yards at the start, and the belly end was cut back a few inches at a time, until the aerialised length felt right, working the rod, and pulling out a decent length of backing on the shoot. I'm no great distance caster, but I once managed 38 yards. Never did it again, however, and never really needed to. That was before shoulder problems dictated 'no more.' TC
PS Cutting DT trout fly lines in half for river work has always made sense to me, as it made silk lines last twice as long, and it permitted the use of smaller, lighter reels, and the addition of adequate backing. I can't think of a situation in normal river dry fly fishing where I would need to have more than 15 yards of fly line outside the rod tip; and nymphing is usually a short-range option.
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Old 11-10-2009, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grayling View Post
I've heard folk say my rod isn't loading very well, should I use a heavier line, WHY, just arialise more line, that will give you the extra weight to load the rod, improvisation.............!!! To go from a #6 line to a #7, weight wise, to only need to arialise another yard or so.
Unless you're on a small river and you have a broomstick rod.

This thread has inspired me to chop up an old 7wt DT and make shooting heads, cheers guys Would be fun if i get it to work...
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