I welcome some advice on the best way to fasten a tapered leader to the end of a fly line. I'm trying to get a smooth and slim joint that will glide through the rings on my 7' #3 cane rod. Don't like loop to loop(too bulky), don't like nail knots. I realise that to get a smooth turnover I need a thickish start to the tapered leader (where it joins the fly line) but this inevitably leads to thick knots.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Nidd

Here is a SBS I posted a little while ago, there are some good posts and a few good links in the thread.

Knotless leader joint SBS...
Frank

__________________
Frank Williams APGAI

See Classified for;

Flouro Drop Style Indicators ¦ French/Czech nymphing leaders ¦ Hi-Vis tippet for indicators ¦
Kamoufil leader material ¦
Stroft ABR & GTM

Sponsored Kilimanjaro climb

what i always use is a braided micro loop, much easier

i also use braided loops very strong

__________________
"There is no greater fan of fly fishing than the worm."

you could remove the first few inches of fly line by dipping in nail varnish remover,then simply tying a loop, ideal size for 3# and will glide through the rings like the preverbial off a shovel.

Hi', Nidd. I hate to sound pessimistic, but in over 50 years of fly fishing I have tried all manner of connectors/connections and not one has been totally successful, as they all produce a crack in the outer coating of the fly line, where there is a step, up or down, in diameter.
The connector that permits the easiest and quickest attachment of a thick leader butt to the end of the fly line is the old plastic 'shuttle-type'. It will pass through most tip rings fairly easily, and its weight/bulk is minimal; but the fly line will crack, after a while, where the fly line enters the 'shuttle'. I am quite prepared to go back to using them, if I can find some.
Fly lines also crack where the coils of nail knots or needle knots bite into the plastic outer skin. Feeding the thick butt of a leader, if you can get one of the right diameter to match the end of the fly line, through the core and out of the skin will stress the skin also. We have to remember that perfect, or even good, transfer of power from line to leader demands the use of a leader butt that is at least 60% of the diameter of the end of the fly line. That is why I used a plastic 'shuttle' over thirty years ago, when I made knotted, tapered leaders which followed the formulae of the great Charles Ritz. I have never had turnover since those days to match that of Ritz leaders when they were connected with 'shuttles'.
Braided loops killed off the 'shuttles'; but they add a lot of bulk, at the loop-to-loop connections that many use, and they cause lines to crack. I am currently waiting to see if the last braided loop on my most recent purchase -- a 3wt DT floater --- behaves more kindly as I have dressed it with a coat of liquid vinyl which is tapered down the line above the sleeve on the braid.
I may even go back to stripping the skin off the line and making a loop with a tying silk whip. I used to do that with my salmon lines. They hinged a bit, but fished OK, as presentation was not as important as it is with dry fly for trout, for example. TC

Surely a nail knot would help? I actually use loop to loop, and whilst turnover is fine ( if you dont have too long a leader on ) , it does catch in the top rod ring and is annoying.

I've never tried the nail knot as it looks hard !

__________________
Irish by birth, Munster by the grace of God.

Are those the wee oval plastic things where you pass the two lines in from opposite ends ,pull them out at the middle ,knot then seperately then pull them back in to the plastic thingy so the knots stop the lines getting pulled back out?
3lbgrayling mentioned them not so long ago and we both found a source but I can't remeber what they were called or who was sellling them but they are def available if that's what you mean.

OH .Hold that result .
Are these the things .Scroll down to Cast Connetors ..Can't tell from the picture
http://www.yga.yorks.com/acatalog/Le...ndicators.html
Heres a better image
http://www.deltaflash.co.uk/Cart/ind...oducts_id=1084

---------- Post added at 03:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:18 PM ----------

Nah. A nail knot is actually very easy if you take it slowly . It does mean whatever you connect is sort of permanently connected so changing a braided leader means removing the connection whereas with loop-loop it is a simple matter .

__________________
Previously known as molley
and
Don't call me "mate" .

Tie a sacrificial butt of thick monofilament (I use 22lbs Bayer Perlon or similar) to the end of the flyline using the needle knot. I use this and on pulling the coild tight they sink into the plastic coating almost flush with the rest of the flyline. Then tie your leader to the sacrificial butt using the four turn water knot. I make my own leaders and find it gives me an edge over the inevitable compromise that a bought ready constructed leader forces upon you.

richard

__________________
Who resides on the right bank of the Derbyshire Wye and is lulled to sleep each night by the mutterings of a weir, dreaming that "When the rivers and their inhabitants come first, we ALL win..."

Thanks for all your advice guys.

I have tried the knotless 'Superglue' method as shown in the post that Frank gave: Knotless leader joint SBS....
It really works well - and handles hardfighting brown trout as experienced yesterday!

One tip I'd like to pass on which improves any fastening method and also prevent water creeping into the end on the flyline via any deliberate or accidental cuts. For a long time I've used 'Aquasure' to repair my waders and even my inflatable boat it's both a sealant and an adhesive and is flexible.

After following Franks advice I painted a thin layer of Aquasure over the whole joint and about 1/2" up the line and down the leader. Now I have a doubly 'glued' joint (Superglue and Aquaseal) and a totally waterfroof end to the fly line.

Early days but seems to work a treat.

Regards
Nidd