For the coming salmon season, I intend to make a few more lures along the lines of that shown below. It is simply a mini wooden plug (very like a Kynoch Killer), small and light enough to be cast on a salmon fly rod. Lacking in imagination, I have called it the Flug. I am sure it would be very effective, for example, on some of the prime beats of the Spey!

I am seeking members' advice on how best to finish the lure, so that it will have sufficient durability to withstand the odd knock on a rock and repeated attacks of sharp toothed salmon. The one shown below has a coating of nail varnish but I have found this to be easily chipped. All suggestions welcome!

The Flug

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I think you will find that lifting it from the dangle will cause you problems, as it will dive as you apply lift, then it will leave the river suddenly, not easy to get a controlled anchor.

Mind you most prime beats on the Spey it will not get wet so I would not worry about the likelyhood of chipping.

Nice troll.

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Malcolm
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Quot homines tot sententiae

A pertinent, and surprisingly moderate, comment, Malcolm .... reflecting a good measure of festive goodwill! I have found that the flug can be lifted into the cast fairly easily if first brought slowly to the surface, much as you would a fly fished on a sinking line. Would you not agree that such a lure, fished on a fly rod, is an acceptable alternative to the tobies and flying condoms permitted on some prime Spey beats in early season?

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do you think it would get down deep enough? its wooden and will float? The diving face is pretty small. Personally I'd either stick to "fly" or go over to a toby or proper rapala, or kynoch! K.

coat with epoxy resin, araldite or B+Q two pack, just paint it on, harder than hell.

I'm still experimenting with the shape but the lure above, fished on a floating line, will dive to a depth of two or three feet below the surface, with plenty of movement. To give an idea of its effectiveness, in approximately eight hours fishing, it has produced two salmon, one from the Border Esk and one from the Allan. It presents a good alternative, I think, to fishing fairly immobile lures on a sinking line. It is also a good option for those who, like me, prefer the fly rod to the spinning rod.

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Yes, I had thought that an epoxy mix would be quite durable. I'll give it a try.

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I too got interested in the idea of plugs that could be used on a fly rod. Often when steelhead fishing I come on pools that would be effectively fished by running a plug, but carrying a second spinning rod isn't feasible.

John, as it turns out, there was something of trend and quite a number of "fly rod" lures made back in the 1960s over here.

The most popular, and still a steelhead and salmon fixture to this day is the Heddon Flatfish. The action on these babies is just fantastic and I've thought more than once that they would be a great salmon option.

I'll post a picture later tonight.

RE the finish on your lure, I'd think that a good Spar exterior polyurethane would work fine. It doesn't chip, it's waterproof, and a quart of it is $10. That'll finish about 1000 Flugs.

Grouse

When painting the lures it might be an idea to go for " Metallic " colours. Pink, red, hot orange and the like. Before applying the final hard coat you could apply some glitter fleck from the likes of a ladies make up shop.

A brushed on epoxy resin or sprayed on clear coat would be good to finish which can be done with an airbrush.

If you know someone who does wood turning, get them to turn you some plugs out of hardwood and try to achieve a point at the rear end. Another useful idea would be to add a second trailing treble tied to the first with maybe some Salmon backing - just a thought.

I would imagine, as you say, if you size the lures correctly that you would in fact be able to utilise these quite effectively on a Spey line - must give it a try.

Donnie,

Yes, I have incorporated glitter in a few flugs, either as loose flake or as a component of glitter nail varnish. I think that, as you say, an epoxy finish is the way to go. The flugs are easily enough made without recourse to a lathe. Just cut a length of dowelling and whittle and sand to the required shape. The hole in the concave face is best made using a fine drill bit.

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