Hi, Gary ( h4gg13 ),
Here is a picture of two repairs in which you can see the lines of the original fractures. The top rod is a 'Shakey' 10ft, 2-piece 6-8 wt, the lower one is an older 9ft, glass fibre 5-6 wt, built on Geoff Bucknall blanks about 30 years ago. The 'Shakey' has landed an 11lb rainbow, so the repair has been well tested. So, some damaged spigots can be mended.
Chers, TC

Hi Terry,
thanks for the pics.
I will give it a go, if i cock it up i will try removing it as i have a blank lying in the garage i could use for a new spigot.

regards Gary

Glad to see your back on line Terry, I recognise that bit of wall.

__________________
"A glint of sun has warmed the air,The flies will soon hatch out, To lure and tempt from their deep lair, The bonnie speckled trout." SKB tackle supporter. I love Furled Leaders.

how did u repair them

Hi, Mark,
I fitted a solid glass fibre tapered spigot of smaller diameter into the stub that was left projecting. Once glued in place, the broken spigot shell was put in place, glue already applied, then the whole was bound with adhesive tape, after cleaning away surplus adhesive. It's a fingers-crossed job, but when you can't find a new butt section as a replacement, you do what you can. I was lucky, because I am still using the old 'Shakey'. Had 5 rainbows from a local fishery on it while sharing a day with mrtrout not long ago. The top section female end completely overlaps the spigot, so it's sound.
BTW, I have also mended two tip sections on 11ft Daiwas. A darning needle was tapered to fit. Dropped in from female end on blank and checked for fit, then hand-worked until half projected from break. Four - inch tip length was offered up for fit and projecting needle worked until a good dry fit was found. Then super-glue was dribbled into top of broken section, needle dropped in again, pushed and then pulled into position; more glue applied; tip portion pushed on, adjusted to fit break, and joint whipped with rod ring tying silk. My 11ft Osprey was still in use as a boat rod, until I had to part with the boat last January.
Hope that helps, they can be repaired and still work satisfactorily. You need a lot of patience, because tapering a steel needle spinning in a pillar drill chuck is a slow business. It's not precision engineering, not like lathe turning or papering, but the fish don't know!. TC

I can vouch for Terrys repairs to that rod, he caught more than me that day, (mind he usually does anyway) and fish were up to 3lb +
Saying that I think he had a maggot on the fly.

__________________
"A glint of sun has warmed the air,The flies will soon hatch out, To lure and tempt from their deep lair, The bonnie speckled trout." SKB tackle supporter. I love Furled Leaders.

Mrtrout, Sir, you are too kind. Now, before I forget, the two repaired spigots were left in situ for the repairs.
Additionally, I also fixed the broken tip of a Sharpe's 88 dry fly rod for a mate. I grooved the cane each side of the break, let in a sewing needle, applied a drop of glue and whipped the joint. It wasn't the prettiest I have done, but my friend said he barely noticed the difference in the feel of the rod.
That reminds me, under stress while casting, or even pulling for a break when snagged, the rod should not break anywhere near the tip, unless the top blank has a weakness at its upper end. Reason is obvious, as a rod when held upright and pulling against resistance will be curved over until the top few inches of the tip section are in a continuous straight line with the fly line. I have never broken a rod while playing a fish, and when I had a daft spell a long time ago and put weight on a spinning rod while snagged, it broke about half way down its length. Yes, I was stupid, but I am honest, and a lesson was learned. Impatience and carelessness can not be condoned. I mended that one as well. That made about the fourth of my own stock to be repaired for breakages. Not too bad over the length of my fishing life, and the tip breakages were not entirely my fault, someone moved the rods in the car, accidentally, as I was closing my door. BUT if I had used a rod tube, the rods would not have been nipped at their delicate ends.
TC

Terry,

An oversleeve is quicker and easier to fit if the break is near to the tip. It would also avoid creating a couple of new potential shear points at each end of the needle - the the needle will be much stiffer then the blank material.
Fibreglass is ideal for this on a carbon rod.


Dave.

Hi, Dave, I take on board what you say. I used the needle method because it kept the rod profile about as slim as I could manage with what was available at the time. In the event of the same sort of break occurring again to mine or someone else's rod, where would we look for the overfit glass fibre tubing to repair so small a diameter section.?
Cheers, Terry C

where could you buy a solid glass fibre tapered spigot?