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Old 04-10-2008, 06:17 AM
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Hi guys,

I have broken a very small section of the male ferule on my diawa lochmore. it is only a little bit and doesn't seem to affect the action of the rod any. However it is a little rough and split at the end of the ferule. Any pointer on what I should do to make sure this doesn't break any further or to finish it off again.
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Old 04-10-2008, 09:03 AM
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Insert a fitted plug into the end of the male ferrule extending an inch beyond any sign of splitting eg dowel or an offcut of fiberglass or graphite blank, not too tight, set with 2-part epoxy (slow cure is best) . Round off the end of the plug to avoid creating a shear point. Lightly sand the exterior with very fine paper to remove any rough spots. You might also put a very thin epoxy coat over the exterior, but make sure you can still get sufficient of the male ferrule into the female to get a secure join.
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:06 AM
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Or you could just carefully cut back to a clean bit of the spigotthen smooth of the edge.


Jim
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Old 05-10-2008, 04:51 AM
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On the whold I think I prefer the sound of a section of dowelling and some epoxy. Not sure I could bring myself to take a hacksaw to it.

thanks guys
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Old 07-10-2008, 10:19 AM
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Jim is right, I feel, having repaired several spigoted rods for self or friends. If you can be bothered, it is possible to remove a male spigot ( not easy ) and insert a new tapered spigot at the female end of the blank. If this is tried, be sure to round off both ends of the new spigot, for reason already mentioned.
Introduce some standard epoxy ( I used Araldite) into the spigot 'seating '
from the top end and drop, then push, the new piece into position. It helps if you do a dry run or two, and mark the new spigot where it protrudes from the top end of the blank before inserting it. Clean off surplus immediately.
Good luck with whatever you try. TC
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Old 07-10-2008, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry Cousin View Post
Jim is right, I feel, having repaired several spigoted rods for self or friends. If you can be bothered, it is possible to remove a male spigot ( not easy ) and insert a new tapered spigot at the female end of the blank. If this is tried, be sure to round off both ends of the new spigot, for reason already mentioned.
Introduce some standard epoxy ( I used Araldite) into the spigot 'seating '
from the top end and drop, then push, the new piece into position. It helps if you do a dry run or two, and mark the new spigot where it protrudes from the top end of the blank before inserting it. Clean off surplus immediately.
Good luck with whatever you try. TC
Hi Terry,
how do you go about removing a male spigot, and what is the spigot made of? Is it just another piece off a carbon blank?

regards Gary
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Old 07-10-2008, 06:56 PM
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Hi, Gary,
I have known someone remove a solid male spigot by applying heat, carefully, to the damaged spigot before the blank came to me, and I have known a couple to be drilled out on a lathe with a mandril that accepted the blank held in the chuck. The blank had to be supported with packing in the mandril and at its other end. Not at all easy, but possible. I suppose if the spigot is not repairable in situ, you have nothing to lose by trying heat. The assembly or the repairs I did, as an amateur, were mainly to glass fibre, heavy rods, for spinning, beach-casting etc on which the spigots were solid.
With carbon rods fitted with spigot joints, the spigots are often tubes themselves, stopped with a rubber filler. They must be harder to remove completely, but I have repaired two that were cracked in car doors, by gluing in solid lengths of fine spigot rod and binding the male end of the blank until the adhesive set. Because the female covered the cracked section, no problem, as yet. Mrtrout has seen a Shakespeare Radial Glider 2-piece, 6wt which I repaired in that way.
I don't pretend that the repairs were easy, and a long blank sticking out of a mandril has to be supported very firmly at each end to prevent it whipping.
I have seen one twirl like a helicopter rotor And smash!
I couldn't vouch for the safety of a blank that was heated to loosen a spigot, but it has been done.
BTW, the only Airflo rod that I have is a replacement for one on which the male spigot stuck in the female and stayed there when I took the rod down
with no more than normal pressure. I told the guy in the shop that I couldn't understand how a tapered spigot could pull out of a male end and was told that 'they are not tapered these days, they rely on the adhesive to hold the spigot in place'. Yeah. What's that stuff that smells and is found in bull rings?
You've got it.
Sorry I couldn't be more positive or more brief in my reply. TC
I would prompt you to check out the Tackle Talk forum. There are likely to be one or two professionals on there, and they would definitely be better qualified than I am to advise you.

Last edited by guest3; 07-10-2008 at 08:25 PM. Reason: Additional text.
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