Hi folks,

I am a complete twonk when it comes to double handed fly fishing so please forgive my complete ignorance in advance.

I was fishing today in very 'tight country' where wading isnt possible and the back cast is surrounded by trees and overhangs, however the river is not too big. I used a Hardy Mach 55 Spey line and really struggled I wouldnt struggle if I were fishing a single handed WF7 as I wouldnt need to aerialise so much line (or at least I dont think I would). It just seems I have to get a fair chunk of this line out just to get a fair way into the belly so that I can make it shoot even a couple of feet.




1. Would I be better off just using a standard WF9 line do you think?



I also had no control over the fly (1 1/4inch brass tube) at close quarters, it was flipping up, across, over ...anywhere but where I wanted it - I was using straight through 10lb tippet I assume a salmon tappered leader will help with that?

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Time is a stream I go fishing in.

DN, I have good news and I have bad news.

First the bad: yes it was the line you were using in the place you had to use it. Long belly (well, at 55' your line would - - be classified as a mid-belly) lines have a long forward taper and you need lots of line to load up the rod.

Now the good news: The type of circumstance you described is EXACTLY what Skagit and Scandi lines were designed to address. The Skagit (and the Skagit cast) were developed here in the PNW. The Scandi heads ... well, just one guess.

To over simplify, a Skagit cast is a delayed (sustained) full on water load, even with a heavy sink tip. A cast with a Scandi head is much more of a standard 'kiss and go' anchor.

Bit of personal taste, but a Skagit head will usually be 2 to 2.5 the length of the rod + sink tip or leader. A Scandi head will be 3 to 3.5 the rod length + sink tip or leader. Here-bouts you'll rarely see a Skagit head used with a full floating (regular) leader, but you can if you want.

Vis a vis the Scandi heads most of us use full on leaders or sinking poly leaders if we want to get down.

The other somewhat limiting factor (one vs the other imho) is a Skagit set up will allow you to cast a fly that's the size of dead bird and weighted like an anvil. The Scandi's ....... naaaa.

Fred

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Thanks Fred, yup the front end taper on this line appears much longer than a line designed for a single hander. I shall google this 'Skagit and Scandi' stuff of which you speak

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Time is a stream I go fishing in.

Hit the SpeyPages web board and do the search function (have to join?) and you'll get gobs of info on the lines, casting, etc. The other place (the cast) is U-tube; a bunch of clips on the topic. Forgot to add: with a name like SpeyPages, you get one guess as to the primary topic. The other thing is you'll note that several of the folks who post here are regular posters there.

fae

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"The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a
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Thanks for the info, Fred. I might try a tapered leader on this but to be honest I have only used the line for a couple of hours.... I might just offer it up for sale....

Anyone interested - I bought it a couple of weeks ago for £60... Original box / spool?

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Time is a stream I go fishing in.

Actually...

Is there anything wrong with chopping some of the front end section off or is that likely to cause a hideous turn over?

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Time is a stream I go fishing in.

Yes ,dont do it ,like many of us with fly rods especially double handers there are to many choices and some of them are wrong ,dread to think how many spey type lines floating around the tackle vault .
If `I were you I would keep the hardy for wider more open rivers and look at perhaps a Snowbee 1d line or even a DT ,maybe a aftm number highr than the rod is rated for.
What is the rod , might have something floating around that might suit especially in the DT department .
BTW do listen to Fred ,he really does know his stuff ,not known as the Sultan of Spey for nothing !

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Andy Wren
Winter grayling taking a year off !
Claret not just a great dubbing colour!

High ACW

If you could have a peek that would be appreciated

Theh rod is an Shakey Odyssey Salmon Fly around 12 ft rated 8 - 9. I dont have much of a need for a double hander where I am, but when the river 'goes off on one' then I need the reach and the abilty to shove an inch or 2 of copper tube out...


Edited to add: I think your right though, the Mach line does a fine job on more open water.

All the best

DN

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Time is a stream I go fishing in.

This is great stuff guys and just exactly the Info' I've been seeking in another forum. But now you have me confused about the difference between 'Scagit' and 'Scandi'...... would anyone care to elaborate further ?

Thanks

First, there is a Skagit line and it is a type of (actual) casting. Scandi lines (depending upon point of reference) are also a type of line and if 'underhand' cast also a casting style.

Both lines will have short HEAVY heads, (Personal preference comes in here) the Skagit head will usually be 2 to 2.5 the length of the rod and is usually used to toss sink tips/heavy flies. The Scandi heads will be 3 to 3.5 times the length of the rod plus leader (floating or sinking poly leader).

Out side of the length and typical usage the Skagit cast is a VERY sustained water loading, the Scandi's are your usual 'kiss and go' type anchor/cast.

Edit: You can do almost any 'cast' using a skagit head as this short clip illustrates:

but do note the length of time the line/sink tip is in the water ... no 'kiss and go' here.

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"The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a
living are now outnumbered by those who vote for a living." -- Anonymous