What line does everyone use when dry fly fishing i was out today for a couple of hours and had a few fish on the dryfly i was using drennan double strength, but was finding it hard to sink my leader even when i applied mud, just interested

i use wychwood truefly flurocarbon, it sinks well when degreased. just waiting for someone to tell me im using the wrong stuff!!! has served me well. hope this helps mate

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its ok to eat fish 'coz they dont have any feelings. k. cobain 1992

I bought Grand Max flurocarbon for dry fly fishing and cant get it to sink at all

I use 6.6lb Stroft ABR for dries which is not a fluro. I find it hard to sink most of the lower breaking strain material regardless if its mono/copol/fluro.

I use mucilin quick sink with a drop of washing up liquid in it, I find simply removing the glare off the tippet is very important. I like the Stroft ABR 6.6lbs at 0.160dia is a great setup for stillwaters high BS but quite thin.

I don't think mud alone will sink your line, it is basically just to take the glare off.
S.

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"A glint of sun has warmed the air,The flies will soon hatch out, To lure and tempt from their deep lair, The bonnie speckled trout." SKB tackle supporter. I love Furled Leaders.

I use Fulling Mill, Fluoro and degrease it with a fullers earth mix. Funny thing is, sometimes it sinks straight off, sometimes it just won't sink no matter how often I degrease it. Strange. And frustrating

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"Take not out your 'ounds on a werry windy day" Surtees.

I used to always apply some sort of mud to my line until a good friend and very successful angler showed me the error of my ways.
Micro drag is far more important to eliminate then a leader that's sunk.
T

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Don't bother doing anything to the line. Just let it do whatever it does. Drag is hard enough to control in two dimensions, sink the leader and you have to work in three dimensions!

Rio Powerflex is the material I use at present but if Diawa ever bring out Super Shinobi again then I will be straight back on it. There never has been a better co-polymer for leaders and tippets.

richard

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Who resides on the right bank of the Derbyshire Wye and is lulled to sleep each night by the mutterings of a weir, dreaming that "When the rivers and their inhabitants come first, we ALL win..."

When all else fails, you could try this:

On a river, have a dropper about 12" from the dry, with a small, easy sink pattern on it. A Tiny Miracle, P.T nymph, sparse spider or thread buzzer size 20-16 depending on size of dry and current speed. The short distance to the dropper is to help ALL the tippet to sink before the dry reaches the expected taking zone. This method helps to eliminate surface micro drag on the dry too! Excellent when fish are feeding on smuts in smooth glides; a size 18-20 Griffiths Gnat with a size 22-20 varnished buzzer on the dropper.

On still water the distance between dry and dropper can be extended to 18" - 24" as the dry is not subject to a short drift to the taking zone.

Then there is:
The duo method, when the 'dry', O.K. its actually an emerger, is on a dropper, with a weighted nymph on the point, is another way round the problem. The weighted nymph drags the dropper and some of the leader/tippet under.
That's on the river. For still water substitute weighted nymph for varnished buzzer etc.

Then again:

The Roy Christie reverse parachute. The design is intended to sink the tippet by the abdomen being submerged.


All this comes from one who is obsessive about visible floating line, and how accepted 'sinkants' rarely do their job!

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"Angling may be said to be so like mathematics in that it can never be fully understood" - Izaak Walton

Daiwa Super Shinobi Try here