This is a very simple buzzer pattern which I have found to be deadly.
There are only a couple of fiddly-bits when tying it, so with a little perseverance even a newbie should do fine.
Some of the benefits of this particular fly are that it sinks like a brick at about 3 or 4 inches per second, so the sink & slow draw method gives a pronounced action & also the dressing is virtually indestructible.
On my last trip to Hazel Copse I caught & released 11 fish on one fly & even though I used forceps a couple of times, the fly remains good as new.

Varnished Black Buzzer



Hook: Tiemco TMC 2487 or Kamasan B110 or B100 or similar, size 10 to 14
Thread: 8/0 Uni-thread in black
Rib: Stripped peacock eye quill
Body & thorax: Uni-thread in black
Cheeks: Orange goose biot fibres
Wing case: Fine pearl tinsel
Varnish: Entire fly coated in 3 or 4 layers of Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails

Firstly, select a well-tapered fibre from the peacock eye feather then strip this by gently holding down the tip of the fibre on a piece of paper, then gently rub a soft pencil eraser against the grain to take the fluff off. I prefer one of the skinnier quills for this particular pattern, taken from just before you reach the actual eye.
You may have to do this in 1 or 2 cm stages, then flip the fibre over to get the fluff on the opposite side of the flue.
Fix your chosen hook in the vice & neatly run touching turns of thread down to about half-way around the bend where you need to tie-in the stripped peacock quill by the thin end of the taper.
Once done, take the thread back up to two-thirds the way up the shank to where the thorax will start, again in neat touching turns.



Now rib the thread body with the stripped quill in quite closely-spaced turns, which should increase slightly in width as you rib.
Tie the quill in with 2 or 3 turns of thread.



Trim the quill off neatly, then wind a reasonably pronounced thorax with the thread. Don't make it too fat, as tying in subsequent materials will increase the size of the thorax anyway. There should be a nice gentle taper to the eye, as below:



Snip off a short length of pearl or holographic tinsel & tie this in directly on top of the thorax, immediately where the body & ribbing ends.
Next, select 2 orange goose biots & trim the thinnest 2 or 3mm off the end, so you are left with a little more width of fibre to play with.
Tie these in on either side of the thorax, shiny side inwards, so that when you bring the fibres forward they will be shiny (good) side outwards.



Once the 3 items are tied-in, bring the thread neatly forward in touching turns to cover them in an even layer.
Stop just 1 or 2 mm short of the eye then bring the biots forwards as tightly as possible as shown below.
Take 2 very tight turns of thread & tear the biot off by wobbling it back & forth, side-to-side or even in a circular motion. Make sure you also hold the thread tight with the bobbin whilst doing this. This is done because simply trimming can make the head uneven & messy.



Repeat for the other biot, then bring the tinsel down tightly directly on top of the shank.



Once tied down, trim the tinsel off as close as possible with fine scissors then make a small, neat head & end with a 3 or 4 turn whip finish which should also be trimmed off as close as possible to the head.



Next coat the whole fly in 360 degrees from the first turn of ribbing to the head in a thin layer of varnish.
I find Sally Hansen's Hard as Nails clear nylon is particularly good & use a needle to apply it because I think this prevents a lot of bubbles being trapped in the varnish in comparison to using a brush.



Leave for at least an hour, then repeat the process 2 or 3 more times.









Tight lines!

nice sbs havent fished hazel cops for some time hope wilf is well what do you think of weir wood

That's what i do but the varnish never comes out like that..............AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.

Thanks John.
Wilf is in fine form & Hazel Copse is still massively overstocked
Haven't fished Weir Wood since the early or mid 1980's when that & Ardingly were our locals.
Always thought Weir Wood was a beautiful, intimate reservoir (as far as any can be!) and it was a shame that the local authority messed around with trout/trout & coarse/coarse over the years.
May give it another go if reports say it's doing ok.

---------- Post added at 12:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:02 PM ----------

If you use thin layers of SH HaN when the bottle is fairly new, you shouldn't have too much of a problem with bubbles.
In the second to last photo above you can see some bubbles on the left side of the body, but 90% went within a few minutes of that application.
Maybe using a needle is better than the brush in this respect, too.

Thanks Steve.......i shal try a needle now.

i was just thinking that a needle must be better because i dont get results like this either / weir wood fishing very well must be closer for you than hazle cops

I have been tying something similar this week in size 18-22, anything that would give the same sort of rib effect in the smaller sizes as stripped herl is too wide for the small hooks.

You can use thread or Ultra Wire Extra Small wire as a rib. A nice look is obtained by using super hair, 2 black and 1 grey wrapped around the wire. (or any similar combination) Charlie's FlyBox - Jujubee Midge

Steve, great SBS. Very nice fly.

Very nice Steve! Where do you get those fly holders from?

SF

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