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Old 09-02-2010, 01:42 PM
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Default Waggy Tail Sculpin SBS

Ok so here's a SBS for OE Waggy tail sculpin, I have not used this pattern yet but I have high hope for it, the only issue I can see is the hook being in the middle of the fly, not sure how it will affect hook ups.

First take your hook, I use Mustad Aberdeens sizes 1/0 to 4. Bend the hook upwards to approximately 45o, make the bend around half way down the shank. Roughen the hook shank with some sandpaper to help the glue keep a firm hold.
Click the image to open in full size.
Make a thread base, I use powersilk 5/0, apply some superglue and dub a smallish rugby ball shape. Take a length of lead wire, i've used .60mm, tie it down leaving a tag hanging down just before the bend. This is used to help when wrapping the lead wire along the back half of the hook shank.
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Apply some superglue to the dubbing ball and start to wrap the lead around the dubbing ball, wrap the lead on the top of the hook shank at the rear of the fly and underneath around the tag at the front end. Trap the wire down with your thread and occasionally apply superglue to the lead wire and thread wraps. On a size 1/0 to 1 hook I use approximately eight inches of wire this creates a rugby ball shape about the length of the rear end of hook shank.
Click the image to open in full size.
Apply a final spot of superglue to this ball on the top and bottom and flatten with some smooth jawed pliers, it will compress quite a lot.
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Whilst the supper is still tacky which it probably will be due to the amount applied, twist on your thread some cream/light tan dubbing, use an antron type dubbing, wrap the dubbing around the lead keeping it tight so that it lays very flat, it's the width you want not depth.
Click the image to open in full size.
Once the rear part is covered you need to prepare the zonker strip, Oliver Edwards uses a natural ginger rabbit skin and if you can get hold of one this would be best, if not white or natural will suffice. To make the zonker, cut a strip starting around 8mm wide, keeping a straight edge for about the length of the back half of the hook shank, taper the strip down to around 3mm. At the end of the zonker you need to fold it back to create the tail, fold over around 4/5mm using contact adhesive, squeeze the end together quite hard to ensure it's not bulky.
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Tie on the zonker at the bend of the hook, apply contact adhesive on top of the dubbing and press down the strip, it should be as wide if not slightly wider than the dubbing body. Superglue the area where the zonker is tied down to secure it.
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Click the image to open in full size.
Now you will begin to form the head, this is made out of sculpin wool, try to match the colour with your dubbing, this and the rabbit skin will the roughly be the same colour for the underneath. It takes approximately three lots of sculpin wool to complete the head, make sure you superglue every tie down stage to keep the fibers secure. If you should need more the add it.
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Once your certain the glue is dry take a brush and brush the wool to blend it all together, also you shouldn't be pulling any quantity of fibers out, if you are then it's not secured properly.
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Once the head is blended begin to cut the head to shape, I always start with the underneath as it will always be flat, go down to as close to level with the body, remember the hook is bent up so don't follow the hook shank. Trim the top and sides to the required shape, look at some pictures of bullhead to see the shape of the natural. When your close to the finished shape trim the zonker strip as there will be too much length on the strip, taper the fur down towards the tail, leaving a bit that will form part of the tail, match the top and bottom of the tail. Trim the tail to length also rounding it too.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Once the head has been trimmed I colour the fly, start with a light brown/sand colour as a base, you can also start with darker colours for a darker fly. Over this put some barring in, if the base is sandy then use dark brown for the barring, if the base is dark brown use black for the bars etc. Leave the fly to dry, this will take a while due to the amount of ink that you put on the fly. Once the ink is dry brush the head and zonker as the fibers will have stuck together.
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To make the pectoral fins take some antron type material, say EP fibers or Moser ghost fiber, Push a needle through just behind where the gills would be on the head, take a sufficient bunch of fibers to make the fin, which are quite large and broad in relation to the size of the fish. Thread the fibers through the needle eye and pull through, try to get the needle between a thread wrap but don't worry if you don't as supper glue will hold it in place. Before you pull the fibers to their eventual position apply a spot of superglue and quickly pull it into the fly, this will now stay in place, trim the fibers to the required size, again using a picture of the natural to judge the size. Barr the fins with a marker.
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Take a cauterizer and burn two little holes where the eyes will be and glue these in, it's best to use a gel superglue or epoxy otherwise the glue will just spread into the head without sticking the eyes properly. Stick on the eyes and your done.
Click the image to open in full size.
Admire your creation and don't be scared to use it, I bet you'll pull out your biggest river brownie with it.
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Old 09-02-2010, 02:01 PM
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wery well explained...thanks mate
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Old 09-02-2010, 04:28 PM
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Nice looking fly, have you given it a swim at all yet ?Just wonder if it fishes hook point up or down?
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:29 PM
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Well done SC for putting in the time and effort on this SBS. Excellent
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Old 09-02-2010, 11:18 PM
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Yip well done....love the look on its face.
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Old 21-02-2010, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLIMAN View Post
Nice looking fly, have you given it a swim at all yet ?Just wonder if it fishes hook point up or down?
FLIMAN, haven't tried it yet, tied up for this coming season, fishes point down or so it should, due to the angle put in the hook shank and the lead being the lowest point of the fly. (if that makes sense)

Equally there should be no issues tying it hook point up just add the lead to a straight hook shank.
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Old 22-02-2010, 07:54 PM
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Superb SBS mate! I fancy having a go meself.

I would even fish with it if i was sure no one was looking :-)
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Old 22-02-2010, 08:03 PM
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mancfly,

there's nothing particularly difficult about the tying, it's just time consuming. Takes a good 45 minutes from start to completion, the general tying is quite quick it's the finishing off that takes a lot of time.

Give it a go, I can't wait to use them this season, I have 10 in my streamer fly box and i've sold some too.

Ben
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Old 12-03-2010, 02:10 PM
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SculpinCrusader....
I don't visit this site very often i have to confess, so only just noticed this thread.

Some time back i tied a sculpin type pattern which I wanted to imitate the Toadfish of Florida.....The only major difference I can see is that I tied the rear portion with EP Silky fibres, rather than a zonker strip. I then added the sculpin wool (fleece) the same as your fly, and finally trimmed it all up so that the materials tapered into each other smoothly.

You are absolutely correct in saying that the actual tying takes very little time at all and it is the trimming that makes the fly a bit of a chore, for this can take half an hour or more to get it right.

Trouble is, I wish I hadn't seen your post, as Your Zonker strip tail is in my opinion a vast improvement on my own tying, for whilst utilising EP Silky fibres rather than normal EP Fibres, causes some movement in the tail end of my pattern, your zonker tail would give it a lot more......So thanks a bunch, I hated tying the things in the first place, and now all because of your good thinking, I have got to start all over again

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Old 12-03-2010, 04:21 PM
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Great post Sculpin looks well worth the effort ,if I get some time I will have a go at this ,Genty's stuff is as usual fantastic.Thanks guys.
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