I have produced a step by step guide to how I tie my Klinkhamers, this is by no means the only way to tie Klinkhamers...I have seen many many different versions all of which have merit.

What I tried to achieve (as a realitive beginner) was to tie the pattern close to what Hans van Klinken originally tied. The body dubbing and hackle colours can be changed to represent different hatches.

Materials

Hook: #14-20 Partridge 15BNX Klinkhamer Extreme
Thread: UTC70 Tan
Wing Post: TMC Aero Dry Wing
Hackle: Good Quality Cock Grizzle (colour to suit)
Body: Flyrite #5 Rust
Thorax: Peacock Herl (3 Strands)
Thread: Danville's Spiderweb


Catch in the thread and then tie on the wing post material
just above where the hook is cranked using 'pinch and loop'
wraps.


Trim off waste post material with an angled cut
to aid smooth taper, put some wraps in front
of the post to force it into an upright position. Then
carefully wind thread up the post around 2 or 3 mm.


Catch in the hackle then wrap the stem up the post
to secure.


Wind the thread down to just short of halfway around
the bend in touching turns.


Apply dubbing to thread and wrap up the body
to just short of the wing post...creating a slight
taper as you go.


Tie in the peacock herl, then using hackle pliers
attached to both the thread & herl spin together
to create a herl rope.


Wrap the herl around the wing post to create a thorax,
then whip finish just behind the eye.


The hook then needs re-positioning vertical in the
vice and the spiderweb thread is then attached
just above the thorax.


The hackle then needs to be wrapped around the
post to create the parachute, do not over do this
process...2 or 3 wraps is normally enough.


The hackle is then tied off with the spiderweb and
consolidated with a couple of spots of varnish placed
at the base of the hackle and wing post. The excess
wing post is trimmed to the required length to finish off.

Sabsman.

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Excellent sbs,

many thanks for sharing

Top drawer SBS mate. thanks for that.

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Spot on SBS. made look so easy

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>>>>>>>MEMBER OF THE S.S.F.D.<<<<<<<<<

You never said which way round you bput the hackle in, ie, dull (concave side up or down). I am a full convert to dull side up after tying them the other way for years, it just looks right and sits lower in the water - apparently this is the original HVK way.

Very Good Sabsman,
The only advice I would give is to bring your wing material further down the body. This is an important design feature as it gives a slightly fuller profile and aids flotation.
But still a great tie..

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But if the wing material is bound down tight to the shank how can it aid flotation? I understand this can give a nice tapered profile but apart from creating a slightly bigger body profile, thus more surface area, the aid to flotation is negligible

Or am I wrong?

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Right ......... that's todays project sorted out, going to give these a go

I've not tried tying this style before so thanks for the 'photos

Thanks for a very clear and concise SBS! Well done mate!

In answer to the few criticisms you have received:

The tight tying in of the wing base is immaterial as regards flotation, it is part of the body, therefore it is sub surface. If it was foam, with the intention of higher floatability which is not the case, there would be a possible, valid argument.

Just the hackle, wing and sometimes the thorax are ginked, the abdomen is meant to cut into the surface, as you know. Seems some don't know tho!

The wing base on your fly DOES help create a nice, slim taper, (not a carrot), that suits the pattern perfectly.

Oh, and just to finish, it looks like you have wound the hackle concave/dull side up........shiny side down, another plus!

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Thanks for that Mancfly,

This recent batch of Klinks was the first since I started tying 12 months ago when I originally attempted the pattern.

I was really testing myself to see if I found it any easier to tie.

I had tried to tie it as close as I could to the original HVK fly which calls for a thin body "The thinner the body the more successful the pattern" and to tie in the hackle with the concave side facing up.

I have tested these in a glass of water and they sit well but are yet to be tried on a river!

sabsman.

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