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Old 11-11-2006, 11:19 PM
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Default Gulper

This fly is the Gulper, or rather a variation of the Gulper and it’s is in my top 5 dry flys.
I’m doing this step by steps in 3 parts. In part one I will show the three main methods I use to make parachute posts. In part two I will show how I have tied the “outrigger tail” and in part three I will show how I tie the fly.
In part 1 and 2 I have used a large hook and heavy thread/ materials so that you can see better.


Instructions assume right-handed tyers



PART 1

The first technique is the one I would normally use for wing posts made from feather or hair, but also occasionally from synthetic materials. Although this is not the technique I have used in the Gulper, I thought it would be usefull to show it to you and give an explanation of why I haven’t used this method on this fly.


STEP 1 (This part is common to all three techniques)

Mount the hook in the vice, attach the thread and wrap to the point shown.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 2
Select the material for your wing post, in this case I am using Orange Twinkle. Place it on top of the shank and bind down.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 3
Lift the wing post upright and place several wraps in front and tight up to it.

Click the image to open in full size.

This will hold the wing post upright.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 4
Take several wraps up the post and then back down to complete the post..

Click the image to open in full size.

I have not used this method on the Gulper because, as you can see it adds quite a lot of bulk on top of the hook, part of which is due to the material selected for the wing post. If I was using Calf body or similar this is the method I would use.

PART 1a

This is the technique I would normally use for synthetic materials on larger flys.

STEP 1
As above

STEP 2
Fold the selected material round the hook shank.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 3
Take the thread round the base of the post and work your way up then back down, as in step 4 above.


Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 4
When you reach the base again take several figure of eight turns to secure the post in place

Click the image to open in full size.

I have not used this method either because it produces a noticeable bump under the shank. It is fine on larger flys though.


PART 1b

This is my preferred technique for small flys and synthetic materials and the one I have used on the Gulper.

STEP 1
As above

STEP 2
Loop the post material round the thread as shown.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 3
Pull it down on top of the shank.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 4
Make a couple of figure of eight wraps to secure the post in position, then wrap up and back down, followed by another couple of figure of eight wraps to complete the post.

Click the image to open in full size.

This is my preferred technique for small flys and synthetic materials because it is quick to tie, relatively easy and there is minimal build-up under and either side of the post.


With all three techniques if you wish you can superglue or varnish the wraps on the post to help stiffen them. I used to but don’t anymore.
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Last edited by scotfly; 05-03-2007 at 07:50 AM.
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Old 11-11-2006, 11:19 PM
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PART 2

There are several techniques for outrigger tails, but this one I think is the best technique and it is the one I have used on the Gulper.

STEP 1
After wrapping the thread to the tail dub a small amount of dubbing onto the thread.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 2
Wrap the dubbed thread on one spot to make a small ball of dubbing. The larger this ball the wider the spread of the tails.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 3
Mount the tail fibres, in this case two, either side of the shank. You can mount them one at a time or both at once, whichever you prefer. After tying them in wrap the thread tight against the ball of dubbing.

Click the image to open in full size.

That is it, a quick and simple technique which will give you a good stable outrigger.

Click the image to open in full size.

If you are tying in three tails simply tie the centre tail in first, then follow the steps above to tie the outriggers in
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Last edited by scotfly; 05-03-2007 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 11-11-2006, 11:20 PM
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PART 3
Ok now for the main event, the Gulper variant. As I have already stated this one’s in my top 5 dry fly lists. Similar to the parachute Adams, but available in more colours.

HOOK – TMC100 #20
THREAD – Lagarturn xx strong 50 denier (coloured black with a marker pen)
WING POST – Orange Twinkle (or whatever you fancy)
HACKLE - Grizzle Cock
TAIL - 2 Light Dun Microfibetts
BODY - Super Fine Dry Fly Dub (No2 – Grey or colour to suit) (or whatever fine dubbing you have)

STEP 1
Mount the hook in the vice, attach the thread and wrap to the point shown.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 2
Mount the post as shown in PART 1 (b) and tie in the hackle with the dull side uppermost leaving enough bare stem to wrap up the post later. Continue wrapping the thread to the bend of the hook.

.
Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 3
Dub a small amount of dubbing onto the thread.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 4
Wrap on one spot as shown in PART 2

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 5
Mount the tails as shown in PART 2

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 6
Add some more dubbing to the thread and wrap to the eye of the hook.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 7
Wrap the dubbed thread back to the wing post, make a figure of eight wrap here to ensure the body immediately under the post is covered, When you have reached this point take the bare thread round the wing post as shown.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 8
Hold the thread, wing post and hook carefully and turn the hook to the vertical in the vice. Then wrap the thread up the post, trapping the hackle as you go, then back down.


Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 9
Wrap the hackle, from the top down the post.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 10
Trap the hackle tip between the bottom of the hackle and the body as shown with a couple of thread wraps.


Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 11
Trim waste then make a whip finish in the gap between hackle and body. When you make the whipfinish insert a dubbing needle loaded with a little varnish in the whip finish loop as you pull it down.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

STEP 12
Trim the wing post to length to complete the fly.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

After completion if there are any rogue hackle fibres (there invariably are) pointing down, simply trim them off.
A very effective fly and relatively easy to tie.
Alter the colours to suit whatever insect is hatching.
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Last edited by scotfly; 05-03-2007 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 11-11-2006, 11:54 PM
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Thats some really good close ups there Scotfly.

Well done mate
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Old 12-11-2006, 12:00 AM
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Thank you A bit too close with some though, you can see the flaws in my techniques
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Old 12-11-2006, 12:05 AM
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What kind of camera are you using?
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Old 12-11-2006, 05:20 PM
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Fuji S7000
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Old 13-11-2006, 08:59 AM
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Wowwwww, thanks Scotfly, you have solved me so many problems here you would not believe it. I have laboured long and hard trying to find a method whereby this, oft times ham fisted, tyer can get wing posts right; I gave up in disgust at my own lack of skill some months ago.

I can't wait to get back to the vice tonight to try your methods.

Thanks again

Steve
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Old 18-11-2006, 10:11 AM
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When you tie the post, Varnish it a little to stop it from moving or changing shape
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Old 18-11-2006, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cromie
When you tie the post, Varnish it a little to stop it from moving or changing shape
Or better still ..... master control of your thread and materials and you don't need to varnish.
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