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Old 07-02-2008, 07:07 PM
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Default Thunder Creek Brown Pearl

THUNDER CREEK STREAMERS

THUNDER CREEK BROWN PEARL

Another great streamer pattern for trout, This fly has produced good size trout all season long. This fly tied sparse is alot more productive in low to normal water levels and tied fuller in high water conditions

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Material

Hook - streamer hook 4 to 10
Thread - orange
Body - pearl tubing
Lateral line- peacock herl
Wing- Pearl Crystal flash & dark brown bucktail
Throat- white bucktail
Gills- red paint or bright thread
Eyes- crème lacquer with black pupil or plastic eyes crazy glued

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Jocelin
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:30 PM
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deleted duplicate post.

Last edited by MichaelL; 12-02-2008 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:36 PM
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I've tried to tie these recently. I've the book 'Thunder Creek Flies: Tying and Fishing the Classic Baitfish Imitations', they recommend straight eye hooks - which I can't find. I've used low water salmon hooks instead.

If anyone knows where I can get the Partridge D3STF hooks from let me know!

I think the shape of the fly would be improved by a striaght eye hook.

Similarly they also mention:

- there should be more of the dark than light bucktail
- clear separation throughout the body of the fly
- the head should be slimmer than most people tie it.

I think the problem comes in trying to tie enough bucktail to cover the head thread (the soln is to use monofilament thread which is covered when using expoxy) and thus creating a head that is 'too big'.

If you look at the front cover of the book on Amazon you'll see what I mean.
I guess the author has a lot of practice tying those flies, but they look 'perfect' in his book.
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelL
I've tried to tie these recently. I've the book 'Thunder Creek Flies: Tying and Fishing the Classic Baitfish Imitations', they recommend straight eye hooks - which I can't find. I've used low water salmon hooks instead.

If anyone knows where I can get the Partridge D3STF hooks from let me know!

I think the shape of the fly would be improved by a striaght eye hook.

Similarly they also mention:

- there should be more of the dark than light bucktail
- clear separation throughout the body of the fly
- the head should be slimmer than most people tie it.

I think the problem comes in trying to tie enough bucktail to cover the head thread (the soln is to use monofilament thread which is covered when using expoxy) and thus creating a head that is 'too big'.

If you look at the front cover of the book on Amazon you'll see what I mean.
I guess the author has a lot of practice tying those flies, but they look 'perfect' in his book.
Micheal

I have been fishing this pattern avarious colors of this pattern since the late eighties and have tried them all from sparse, thick, dark, light, big head, small head, epoxied and not, painted eyes glued eyes and no eyes straigth eye, upright ,downward eyes, long fly shorth fly.


Here are my thoughts on what works best for Brook trout (Salvelinus fontinalis) and lake trout (Salvelinus Namaycush) here in Quebec (please take note that these could be different for you in the UK)

The style eyes of hook has no noted difference in the fly catching abilities

I have noticed a shorther fly in the 2 inch range with a rounded head helped with dubbing under the deertail is best. LArge eyes are better than painted ones to attract fish but are alot easier to lose. The hair has to be not to sparse or mot to full in the mid range its best.

The fly is fished near the bottom of rivers and roled over rock and with gentle jerks stripped will create a foraging fish trying to hide in the rocks and bang zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz the reel screams

Jocelin

Micheal not all river or species will react to the original recipe at all depends of the fish and location you fish the fly. What makes a successful fly tyer and flyfisherman is the abbility to try and test new materials and tying techniques to make a favorite fly even deadlier.
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOCELIN
Micheal

I have been fishing this pattern avarious colors of this pattern since the late eighties and have tried them all from sparse, thick, dark, light, big head, small head, epoxied and not, painted eyes glued eyes and no eyes straigth eye, upright ,downward eyes, long fly shorth fly.


Here are my thoughts on what works best for Brook trout (Salvelinus fontinalis) and lake trout (Salvelinus Namaycush) here in Quebec (please take note that these could be different for you in the UK)

The style eyes of hook has no noted difference in the fly catching abilities

I have noticed a shorther fly in the 2 inch range with a rounded head helped with dubbing under the deertail is best. LArge eyes are better than painted ones to attract fish but are alot easier to lose. The hair has to be not to sparse or mot to full in the mid range its best.

The fly is fished near the bottom of rivers and roled over rock and with gentle jerks stripped will create a foraging fish trying to hide in the rocks and bang zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz the reel screams

Jocelin

Micheal not all river or species will react to the original recipe at all depends of the fish and location you fish the fly. What makes a successful fly tyer and flyfisherman is the abbility to try and test new materials and tying techniques to make a favorite fly even deadlier.
Indeed. I mentioned the differences from 'the book' just b/c the author seemed to have the contary experience. He states (iirc) that the slimmer head is preferable in the way the fly swims and it catches more fish for him - hence his explicit warning about building too big a head out of proportion to the body.

Out of interest what epoxy to you use? Mine is a '5-minute' one that takes an age to dry...
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelL
Indeed. I mentioned the differences from 'the book' just b/c the author seemed to have the contary experience. He states (iirc) that the slimmer head is preferable in the way the fly swims and it catches more fish for him - hence his explicit warning about building too big a head out of proportion to the body.

Out of interest what epoxy to you use? Mine is a '5-minute' one that takes an age to dry...
Thanks for your quick answer

You should try them in the authors style and then try different one of your style. I would like to know with different species how this flies works on brown trout etc. We could be both surprised with the results.

I have tried differents line also like floating sink tips, full sing to slow sink and intermediate is best for me in regular depth rivers of 5 to 7 feet deep.


On this fly I simply use lots of head cements. But I have used 5 min epoxy also. Both will do

Jocelin

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Old 12-02-2008, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOCELIN
Thanks for your quick answer

You should try them in the authors style and then try different one of your style. I would like to know with different species how this flies works on brown trout etc. We could be both surprised with the results.

I have tried differents line also like floating sink tips, full sing to slow sink and intermediate is best for me in regular depth rivers of 5 to 7 feet deep.


On this fly I simply use lots of head cements. But I have used 5 min epoxy also. Both will do

Jocelin

Tight lines & Screaming reels
I'm going to try them this season. For some reason I don't do much streamer fishing here in the UK, but travelling overseas (NZ), I frequently try a woolly ****** if things get a bit slow. So, I'd like to find out how the streamers will work here in the UK.

That book is quite good acutally, for different ideas on colours etc...
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:56 PM
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Partridge D3STF has been discontinued
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Old 12-02-2008, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ickypimp
Partridge D3STF has been discontinued
Thanks, any alternative? I guess there must be some small saltwater hooks with straight eye?
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Old 13-02-2008, 08:09 AM
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Mustad C70 'Big Game Light' might fit the bill. They go down to an 8. Partridge CS 54 saltwater shrimp go down to a 10.
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