As I've just got my hands on a new camera(actually an old one from a forum member-cheers Brian), I thought I'd try and post a "how to".
Appologies for the pictures, I don't have anything like a studio set-up but at least you'll get a pretty good idea. I still need to learn about white balance, depth of focus, lighting etc. Any tips welcome.
LITTLE PINKIE a Shrimp obviously.
Hook-Curved shank scud #18,#16(shown here),#14,#12. Whatever you have knocking about, I really rate the Varivas 2200 but this was what was to hand, it'll catch me fish or the bottom!
Thread-GSP(whatever make you prefer!)pink or white coloured pink with a marker
Bead-Tungsten slotted black, sized to suit the hook/weight required. 2.3mm for this one.
Extra ballast-Square lead wire.
Back- Clear "Flexi body" plactic strip, cut to a taper at one end (the tying in point).
Flashback(optional-Isn't everything?)-Opal Mirage Tinsel in medium or large for the big boys
Dubbing-70% Roman Moser Gammarus pink, 30% Hareline Ice Dub UV Fl. Hot Pink. 100% Ice Dub for extra bright, dirty water, bugs.
1. Flatten the barb, if your chosen hook has one, thread on a bead, jam it in your vice and lay down some thread base.

2. Add lead wire. Be gentle with the thread tension if you arn't used to GSP as it will easily "cheese cut" the lead.
Keep it on top of the hook shank. Tie in the front section first, leaving the rear half of the lead free of thread. The front secured cut the lead at an angle and tie down...extra gentle on the fine cut section. Soak with cement.

3. Repeat with a shorter length of lead....keep it all on top! This gives a nice slim(flat profile) which I like in my shrimps, the grayling seem to aswell.

4. Tie in back followed by the opal .

5. Take thread back to just behind the bead, add your dubbing and wind back to the "shell back tie in point".

6. Spin the thread to cord it, pull the back and flash over and tie it down with firm open ribs. Try to keep the flash central. This can be tricky, especially on smaller ones like this, and the humped back tries to throw the flash to one side...patience now!

7. Tie down behind the bead. Pull the back (and flash) as you cut it close in the crease of the bead. Whip finish and add cement to the wraps.

8. Now get picking the dubbing out with whatever pointy tool you prefer, to give the finished bug some leggy action.

Flash back....whooo drug history!

These are small but weighty little critters that cut through turbulent water really well. It has been my top grayling pattern for the last twelve months and I'm counting on it for a few more in the morning.
You can use a mono rib if you prefer but I don't like tying off mono, if I can help it...always builds bulk. The GSP is pretty tough stuff so doesn't suffer too much from "trout tooth abuse".
It is easier to tie using more elastic back materials(Scud Back etc) but I've found these perish if left for a few seasons, so I don't use 'em.
If you get through flies quicker than daddy trout in May then this won't be a problem for you. I tend to tie in bursts, making lots of a pattern to last forever, just topping them up when required...may be years for rarely used patterns.
A Rhyac teaser...

Heptageanid nymph...

Both the above are from my nymph box, they are used patterns both having caught fish.
These how toos can wait till my camera work improves.
Dee