Super Glue

[XL50]

Im in the middle of leading my hooks for an onslaught of bug tying! My question is which type of super glue do you prefer? I have been using a thin glue which was bought from Pat at Flytek its not cheap as glues go but I felt it was worth it. My only gripe with any super glue is trying to keeping the outside of the nozzle clean so the cap unscrews when you want to use it!! This always seems to work for a wee while before the cap gets stuck and I end up throwing a 3/4 filled bottle out. I This time Im planning to have all my hooks leaded in 2 batches then glue them to try and avoid this happening Ive around 150 to lead up plus tungsten bio bodies as I tie for 3 rods Another thought Ive just had, does the caps end up being glued for you or how do you get round it happening.

[BRUCE1]

use the loctite easy brush ,wide necked bottle,when your getting empty just squeeze another tube or two into it ..

Loctite Super Glue Easy Brush: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Loctite Super Glue Easy Brush: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

[Captain Scarlet]

Superglue Gel...

Squeezy Bottle, normal Superglue tends to wick down the hook shank, where as gel stays where it is.

Carl

[arkle]

Bond Lok from Toolstation in 2ml. tubes is very well priced, works well & the tube outer is easy to clean - just use a pair of pliers to break any hardened glue off with. I prefer it to Zap-a-gap products & you can get it in 3 viscosities.

[Highlander]

A little trick with super glue is once you have finished & put the lid back give the base it a sharp knock on a hard surface. You will not have any problems with lid solidifying. Now Aquasure that is a different kettle of fish... Freezing?
Yes/no
Tight Lines

[XL50]

Originally Posted by Highlander

A little trick with super glue is once you have finished & put the lid back give the base it a sharp knock on a hard surface. You will not have any problems
with lid solidifying. Now Aquasure that is a different kettle of fish... Freezing?
Yes/no
Tight Lines

Thats a handy tip. As for Aquasure I freeze mine.

[Angus McLeod]

While we are on the subject, does anyone know of a superglue which does not take on a milky bloom when it gets wet.
For some years now I have been using stuff called One Spot, which does remain clear, but it is becoming increasingly difficult to get hold of.
There are various very similar names -- One Drop, Sure Spot etc -- but these do become opaque when the fly is used, unless you varnish over them, which essentially means doing the job twice.
Any brand names, along with details of where they can be bought, would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Angus

[neil26]

Originally Posted by Angus McLeod

While we are on the subject, does anyone know of a superglue which does not take on a milky bloom when it gets wet.
For some years now I have been using stuff called One Spot, which does remain clear, but it is becoming increasingly difficult to get hold of.
There are various very similar names -- One Drop, Sure Spot etc -- but these do become opaque when the fly is used, unless you varnish over them, which essentially means doing the job twice.
Any brand names, along with details of where they can be bought, would be much appreciated.
Cheers,
Angus

for a non bloom CA -A glue suitable for plastics would be best- marketed as 'odourless' or 'foam safe' . zap a gap do one or can buy similar from a model shop. these wont bloom when curing in a moist environment but not sure if will bloom during immersion. hope that helps

[powerbond]

Here are some tips you might find useful.

Cyanoacrylate is activated by microdroplets of water in the atmosphere. The wetter the environment, humidity, dampness and so on the more likely your applications will bloom. Prepare your flies in as dry an atmosphere as posiible and it will help. Also use a low bloom CA, usually the more expensive professional ones. Providing you do this you should not need to varnish or apply any protective layers, once the CA is cured it becomes inert.

Storage is a matter of regular temperatures, for prolonged CA shelf life keep it cool and dry. The fridge is ideal and if you don't intend to use it for a while freezing is no problem because it is ethyl based and will not therefore expand in its container. The only thing to remember is allow it to come up to the ambient temperature before you use it.

A good CA will have a pin in the cap to keep the nozzle free of blockages. Tap the bottle sharply on a hard surface when you finish using it, wipe any spills or drips there may be on the nozzle with a bit of scrap newspaer - quick twisting action is best for this - and store the container upright. This should prevent blockages and the cap from bonding with the nozzle. Anecdotally it is also effective to put some clingfilm over the nozzle before putting the cap back on - CA will not, as a rule, bond the family of plastics called polyolefins of which clingfilm is a member.

There's more information about CAs on our website. We get quite a bit of feedback from both coarse and game fishermen. I wouldn't be so crude as to encourage you to purchase our product but I wouldn't dissuade you either...

Tight lines!

Lee Baldwin

www.powerbonduk.com
www.theoriginalpowerbond.com

[arkle]

Thanks for the tremendous amount of info Lee, & welcome along to the forum.

I remember seeing somewhere that sodium bicarb. could be used as accelorant, I've also see sprays for the same purpose but imagine these would be of very limited use for our types of application(s). Is this still true ?