Bugbond problem

[lewins]

Alright Chaps,

Ive been using bugbond lite for the last week for buzzers and after curing with torch it still feels a bit 'tacky'

I put a thin layer on to start and cure with me torch for around 30 seconds then build up body with 2 more coats, curing inbetween. The resin does go solid after curing, it just feels a bit tacky still, even after a few days on the window sill.

Any advice? Should I just use 1 coat overall?

Cheers for any help

[spidersplus]

Lewins,

Are you using the Bug Bond torch? - the one that is recommended by Bug Bond to use works at a specific light spectrum.

On saying that, all light cured resins, which obviously includes Bug Bond and Clear Cure Goo, react with oxygen in the air when curing to form a slight greasiness on the surface that will evaporate off in time – and even faster on a warm, sunny windowsill - the weather at the moment will not be helping!

Try giving the finished fly a wipe over with some varnish thinners – should get rid of the residue.

Hope this helps.

Kind regards

[dabhoy]

As Phil has said previously about using the correct torch or if it is the correct one make sure it is not needing fresh batteries.

[Ayr Traveller]

try giving the finished fly a coat of varnish

[lewins]

Thanks Lads, I assume Im using correct torch, came with the bugbond kit from GAC, thanks for the tips I'll give them a go. The resin does set hard but just a bit sticky to the touch - probably the greasiness spidersplus is talking about. Thanks again
Lewins

[shortea]

have never used bugbond but i thought it was supposed to cure with no tackyness as opposed to other uv cure resins-were the first ones you did when the batteries were new tacky


Nick

[flytire]

a coat of sally hansens gets rid of the problem

[mick7662492]

Ive been using the bug-bond kit for about 6 weeks now and have the same issue. Have tried changing the batteries to top grade ones but no change, its still slightly tacky when cured and if handled at all the finish seems to dull or smudge. I find it best to give the finished buzzer a quick thin coat of hard as nails, seals everything up and keeps em like glass. A little inconvenient but it works for me.
Mick

[parintele]

i don't use BB but a UV nail gels set ()construction and gloss hard coat) and in these resins, cleaning the sticky stuff on top is standard procedure. I use a cleaner (they call it cleanser) which came with the nail kit and it does the job well, the surface is glassy as it should.
THe cleaner is a simple mix of acethone and alcohol but i have used a regular nail cleaner and works just fine.
Give it a try, if the resin is cured nothing bad happen.
The bad part of this sticky residual stuff is you do not know exactly if the resin is totally cured but a little trial to see how fast a certain layer or resin cures (it's thickness and under material texture and color) will help. I first cured for 2 minutes (as nail use instructions specifies) but i tried for less time and i observed it is properly cured much faster, they advise you to cure for that long just to be shure and considering in nail consturction you need to polish using various piles imediatly after curing....

So is not a big thing if residual stuff occurs, use a nail cleaner /acetone product and is done. If it works on the cheapest Uv resin available good enough, will certainly work on much better products dedicated for flytying with less espected leftovers

[Captain Scarlet]

I had a similar problem, chance the batteries is an obvious one, but you also have to hold the torch a good distance away from the fly, as the lining from the head of the torch blocks some of the UV rays, I have found that a 4" minimum is best for a one time, 30 sec blast and leave them in the sun, if there's any residue.

DONT TOUCH THE FLY!!! The grease off your finger doesn't help the final finish of the buzzer. The final correct finish of BB will have a rubber feel to it, it's the nature of the product. Don't expect it to be like HAN or Cellire Varnish.