I have caught on green, black and red buzzers in the past. Seemed to do the trick. A lure will also do the trick!

I've been down to our club coarse lake a good few times trying out a new rod or line. Normally put two ptn's on about 18" apart just to have some fun with the Perch. The ptn's are size 16 standard issue but both have a red collar. The little beggers can't resist-two hooked at a time is common. Once one is hooked others see the commotion and grab the second fly, bit like Mackerell really .

I'm sure it's the red collar that gets them all fiesty.

Chris.

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" I still don't know why I fish or why other men fish except that we like it and it makes us think and feel".
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Just out of interest, how many of you target perch on purpose?
I mean have you tried to catch them consistently over a longer period?
One can catch perch on nearly anything given the right conditions, once or twice I managed them on dries as well when they were chasing fry in shallow water a year or so ago. However, if I want to catch them consistently there is only one or two flies that really score as I learned over the past few years.
I must admit I have not tried them creatures in reservoir. But I am sure they work.
Let me hear your story how often you go out and deliberately target perch and what is your method of catching them.
My best so far is sneaking upon the fish holding place and using a long flyrod
(or a shorter one in the summer) I tend to jig the fly, always staying in contact with the fly. Sometimes takes can be subtle, especially this time of the year.

As for the flies, you must be bored to hell with the tadpole but one must admit it is a rather productive and versatile pattern but for perch you need massive tungsten head to give you the right action. The other one which is when perch want a good mouthful is my own invention. Well, I found something similar on the net and modified it to suit my needs. The fishy pattern is tied with a massive tungsten bead embedded under the epoxy head. The tail is articulated. It takes time to tie one up but I love the look of it and most importantly it catches perch almost as often as the tadpole.



the taddy



wiggle bait fish (the length varies between 3.5-6 cm)

If you need a tying demo that can be arranged for.



On a tadpole



On a tadpole with tungy dumbbell eyes



A nice perch on the wiggle fish



One on the a black taddy



One of my very first ones few years ago. Notice the splitshot on the line. That is there for a reason.

Best of luck,

Pete

I used to catch a lot of perch on olive dog knobblers with a figure of 8.

Had some quiet big ones on black lead heads (dog nobblers) and black muddlers on fast sink heads in Galloway lochs (but instead of big cannibal trout the target at the time) I'm pretty sure lead liners at rutland and grafham caught some big perch.
T

Pete, some lovely perch there. I like your wiggle baitfish, how are they tied?

Those wiggle bait fish look impressive have you tried them in salt water

Hi Steve,

If you google Ulf Hagtrom then you may find more about the wiggle baitfish This link was the starting point for my wiggle fish. I will send you my SBS once it is ready, hopefully around the weekend. It is important (at least in my view) that you tie it with a heavy head. I do not like to pinch on a split shot that is why I embed a 4-5mm tungy bead.
I shall keep you posted!

As for the other question, no I have not tried it for sea bass. I would love to get down to the sea some time this year since I have never flyfished for salty creatures but I do not own any kayak yet neither have any idea where to go to catch for sure from the coast/rocks. I am open to any info if you want to PM me.

Yours,

Pete

Steve and all who may be interested,

Here is my attempt to show you how I tie my version of the wiggle baitfish for perch.

Ingredients:
Mustad C49S size 8-6 hook ( find the shape of this hook is just perfect for the job)
4.5 – 5.5 mm tungsten bead
30-40lb mono
Fine mylar tube, colour of your choice
Craft fur or similar for the tail (I suggest white since you can colour it easily)
Long chenille for the body (Again, white is probably the most versatile colour)
5-6mm stick on eyes
Epoxy ( I prefer 30 minutes epoxy since it gives better penetration hence more weight for building up the head)
Holographic Flashabou for the side stripes



The tail:

Cut a few inch off the mono and fold it half.

Measure the length of the tail you want to make and cut the mono accordingly. Do not forget the imitation of the caudal fin will add some extra length too. Using your strong tying thread ( I use power silk) form a small loop at the bend of the mono.

It does not need to be massive but big enough to allow for free movement of the tail. When you are done, few half hitches and a dab of superglue secures the wraps.
Next step is to cut the mylar to length and cut the double end of the mono accordingly.

Then melt the end of the mono to form a little flat end.

This is to prevent the tail to slip off accidentally. Maybe a little bit OTT but I like to do it this way.
Cut two small matching clumps of craft fur then place them to each side of the mono.


It is important that the tail end loop ( the tail end connector loop) is in the horizontal plane and the craft fur is in the vertical.
I have found the horizontal tail end connector loop gives better wiggling action. Once the craft fur is tied on, drop on a few half hitches and secure the thread with a blob of superglue.
The next job is to slide on the mylar and lock both ends in place, roughly as you see in the picture.


Colour the tail by brushing the marker pen into the fibres. This gives a nice effect especially if you use multiple colours.

The tail is now done.

The body:

Stick the tungsten onto the hook, again a little dab of superglue never hurts. Tie in a short piece of mono and slide it through the tail end loop and secure it to the hook. Do not forget, tail end loop will stay horizontal and the hook end loop shall be vertical.


Apply superglue to the thread.
Once the superglue has cured, starting at the tail tie in the long chenille. You will only need a few turns of this.
Remember when you are moving towards the eye always brush the fibres back. Moisten your fingers to make this process easy.

Finish the chenille by tying it down just behind the bead and apply as much pressure as you can. Superglue the thread before you throw on the last turns and finish the process off with a few half hitches. The hard bit is done, at this stage you have an almost perfect baitfish imitation with a nice heavy head.

If you fancy you can probably just give it a try as it stands
, I am sure it would catch. However, if you wish to take it further then a small amount of superglue on both sides of the head and you are ready to stick on the Flashabou.

The reason I do it this way is because the flashy stripes stay perfectly in line with the center line of the body and run flat along the sides. I have tried to tie 'em in the past but they always stuck out.
Once the Falshabou stripes are in place stick on the eyes.

Mix up a small batch of epoxy.

I use 30 mins epoxy and never try to build up the head on one go. Take your time and use 2-3 layers. The result will be way better and pleasant to look at.
After the first layer of epoxy:


Sorry lads, I forgot to take a pic after the head was completed but I am sure your imagination can finish the rest. - > corrected
I have now taken some time and took a pic of the finished fly:



I hope this fly will bring you as much success as it has given me in the past year!

Pete

Clever little fly that Pete, thanks for sharing

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