Hi folks,

to the (probably rather few) winter silverfish specialists: does anyone know what roach and chub in particular are likely to be eating at this time of year? I've tried everything, in every way I can think of, and am getting no-where. It's especially frustrating because they're actually starting to move on the surface quite a bit, and are clearly taking *something* off the top.

Any clues would be very gratefully recieved.

Or I'll have to admit defeat and go back to piking!

Hi Matt.

I'm sure Skatebord Dave has posted in the past something about it. It'll be worth your while to put in a search.

Ernie

Hi Matt.
It could be the drag and presentation rather than the flies which is scuppering the results.
That is why my winter fishing concentrates on the smallest brooks as on those you've so much less distance and depth to overcome. In summer the fish being more active and willing(and generally slower flows) means you get away with a little drag(or lot!) and still catch.
Almost every silver fish I catch in winter is on the dangle directly below the rod tip NOT at an angle across the current.
The flies are also held still or very slowly twitched back not drifted downstream...dead-drift might work for grayling but you'll dry net for roach, dace and chub.
On bigger rivers you'll be restricted to the margins or "points" where the flow is very favorable...or get a silly long rod!
On canals I've had winter chub by just casting and retrieving very slowly and roach by casting in calm areas on the drop...wind kills this though...got to be drag free.
Tried a fast sinker and tiny flies? This has worked on occasion for me in the bigger pools but still on my small rivers.
I'm always struggling to catch and trying to work them out. Bigger chub have been impossible for me this winter but small dace, roach chub and perch have kept me off the pike bandwagon...I'd much rather be using a 000 wt than a 10wt.
Dee

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hi dave

are you fishing czech nymph style but keeping the nymph static in the current or have i got this completely wrong?

bill

Yes, what flies are you using for that method Dee? Is it some of those small fritz/jig type ones I've seen on some of your other posts?

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Hi Bill.
Sort of, so yeah I suppose.
I try to concentrate on the edge of fast flows and eddies and also using the lightest flies I can to reach the deck. This means lots of fly changes for each different swim...generally I just change one heavy fly on the top or point position of the cast.
Varying the weight of this one should get the other flies down in the right zone which is idealy just fluttering on and of the bottom.
If it's coloured I'll use 3 pretty close together but just 2 about 3 or 4 foot apart if its clear.
The casts are no longer than Czech nymph style either. You could easily get away without any flyline for most swims but occasionally a few yards may be cast. This would only happen if the line will go dead straight with the flow though as if there are undulating currents, "snaking" the line on the surface, it will ruin the presentation.
You have to really concentrate on holding your rod ultra still and usually with the tip just off the surface which could be downstream or out at 90 degrees depending on the "crease" you are covering.
Casting into the flow near a crease then positioning your rod tip over the slack so the flies gently swing from the faster into slacker water is the best tactic.
Takes usually come as the nymphs leave the rapid flow and find a zone where their weight cancels out the force of the water and so they begin to touch down(if your flies are the correct weight this WILL NOT happen in the faster flows on a tight line).
Once in the catching zone hold dead still but give the odd tiny twitch back or push the rod tip over slightly quicker or slower water...just enough to give a little animation to your offerings.
Takes can be quite positive especially when you've only a foot or 2 of flyline past the tip ring. You often get a definite tap but at such close range even a tiny twitch on the line should be detectable.
Short answer was "yes" but there is so much more to making it work.
Yours
Dee

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It's not flyfishing if you're throwing bait in....learn to do it properly

Hi Jeff.
The flies are pretty general small nymphs, often bead-heads, fished in twos or threes.
Best sizes are 16s and 18s and best patterns pink shrimps and bead head GRHE nymphs with a partridge hackle behind the bead all tied on classic curved Czech nymph style hooks or little jig hooks(my new favorite).
the HE nymphs I carry in sizes from 14 to 20s and these sizes also in both tungsten and brass heads...a couple of proven fish takers in a mass of size/weight variations is all that is needed.
A bead head pheasant tail is also worth carrying as is a peacock herl bodied nymph similar to the HE bug(just substitute the hair with herl and use a silver rib).
None of the flies are complicated or anything special...simple but effective.
A typical cast would have a 3-4mm tungy size 16 HE on the top dropper, size 16 shrimp on the bottom dropper and a 2.5mm brass beaded HE on the point.
All of that could drastically change depending upon the flow but always trying to keep at least one fly pretty light(at most a 16 with a couple of mm tungsten)
No pics. but I'm sure you get the idea.
Dee

__________________
It's not flyfishing if you're throwing bait in....learn to do it properly

Thanks for that Dave - just what was needed!

Off to Edinburgh today, so may be a while before I get to put it all in practice again.

nice one dave