Sorry for the delay. Been standing in a lake in the rain for a week.
Inspired by my week and the final photo by Wee Jimmy of last months theme; this months them is weather.

HI

Looks like you a drop of rain

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the top photo was taken in Tewkesbury high street?

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ugly casts catch fish too
http://nadder-diary.net

sunny grafham

long rock lands end

Loch Naver a couple of weeks back:





Kev

Arthur everytime u post a pic I mention the colours you get in them. Your pictures are always absolutely stunnin. What cam do you use? I use a olympus E-500 and cant acheive the colours you do. Do you alter them in photoshop or do you just have the knack for it?

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Scott

This was on Sunday just before the heavens opened up. Once it finished bucketing down there was a short lived rise that gave great sport.

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Roddy

"Sod it! I am going out to sink a klink!"

P...


Check your White Balance (WB) Setting....most leave it on auto...which is cack if you want saturated colours, switch it to the "Shade" setting, and if it has exposure compensation, under expose by 1 stop (-1)...

...additionally if your using RAW instead of JPEG on your camera, use RAWSHOOTER Software....then play with the saturation & Hue settings....this is not cheating BTW...its no different to "Dodgeing" in the darkroom (thats bound to get some comments.. )

Oh....and if your camera has a spot meter....meter from the anything that is neutral in tone....a slate grey coloured rock, or anything bright red (telephone box red then...DON'T Meter from grass!!..it will over expose by 1 stop....bad bad toooooooad)...then set that exposure, and again underexpose by about one stop....if in doubt take a couple of shots at - 1, then again at -2........

if the light dosn't change drastically, you can leave your camera set to that....

one final tip...always ensure you UNDEREXPOSE your photos....best would be half to one full stop under depending on light levels...you can go up to 2 stops under (3 if you really know what your doing...) for shots with midtone colours (Landscape, etc)....you will always have good colour saturation and its easier to recover shots with software after than it is if you overexpose & burn out the highlights.....


and finally....some camera manufacturors dial in certain "Settings" as standard...I have used all major systems over the years and found that Nikon are the most accurate.....Canon dial in slight under exposure, and are lenses are very good for AF Lock on....(i refer to Pro level equipment...can't vouch for kit lwer down the range but would image that this being aimed at the masses rather than as use as a working tool, would be the same...)

cheers

Steve

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"Alive without breath,
As cold as death,
Never thirsty, ever drinking,
All in mail, never clinking"

Golems Riddle, "The Hobbit"

In addition to the above post, most point and shoot cameras will have built in sharpening settings for saving jpg files, this will undoubtedly make some photos seem sharper but it will account for the times when you get a sort of black outline around objects, especially backlit ones. See if you can turn down, or better yet off, any of the in camera auto adjustments and just do it in post production if needed. The same goes for auto colour adjustment settings that some point and shoot cameras use. Also see if you can switch your camera to be using the adobe RGB (1998) colour profile.

Your best friend for moving from point and shoot auto settings to a more creative approach is to use your aperture priority mode to start with. Many point and click cameras will have this mode and it'll begin your process of having to think about depth of field and aperture. The camera will take care of the shutter speed but you will at least have some creative input

One thing, if you turn off your auto settings you'll notice a drop in visual quality when you first start. Take a while to play with it and use some basic post production and you'll see your photos start to improve dramatically over time.

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ugly casts catch fish too
http://nadder-diary.net