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Old 03-12-2010, 09:53 PM
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Default Photographing Snow.

Why is it that a lot of 'Snowscapes' turn out disappointingly grey?

Click the image to open in full size.

Quite simply, the most common and most important (but easliy cured) factor is underexposure. All cameras are calibrated to read the light and tones from a scene and average them out to 18%, or 'middle' grey. This is generally fine for 'average', everyday scenes, where there is a broad range of lighting intensity, shadows, highlights and tones. Unfortunatley, snow scenes are far from average due to the predominantly (white) monochramatic nature of the scene. The camera, bless its little light meter, sees the bright/white scene and thinks it is doing us a favour by underexposing and averaging out the snow scene to mid grey. Fortuantley, it's very easy to cure, by manually overriding the cameras choice of setting, and OVERexposing with a little help from a feature found on all DSLR's and the majority of compacts, called 'Exposure Compensation'.

The Exposure Compensation feature allows us to override the cameras meter reading (which would produce an 'average') and enter either an increase or decrease in exposure. Most cameras will allow you to do this in either 1 full 'stop' (full increment of either a) time value/shutter speed, or b) aperture value/F.Stop) one half, or one third increments.

For most snow scenes, an exposure compensation (over) of 1 to 2 stops is required .

Locate your 'Exposure Compensation' feature on your camera - if you don't know what it is or where it is, then get yer maunual out, or Google your camera model. Get to know how use it, and how to change its settings in the field quickly. Being @rsed with this sort of thing is the difference between consistently good shots, and consistently pants shots!

Click the image to open in full size.

Of course, this can be done just as easilly using the full manual settings on any camera that has them - simply take a reading, then increase by at least one stop - either time, or F.stop.

Another pain in the ass is snow scenes under heavy cloud and poor light. Very difficult to get decent results from this scenario. It's bad enough with decent light. Again though, in order to get anything vaguely better than a boring dollop of depressing greyness, then Exposure Compensation is yer man. White balance can also be a problem with this kind of scene, and if set to AWB (auto white balance) the camera often struggles to come up with a suitable setting. Even the more specific pre-sets seem to struggle. If your camera has a 'custom' white balance option (more on this in a mo) then that will likely be the way forward. I rarely bother though when faced with this kind of scene... as always, it's nigh-on impossible to make a silk purse from a sow's ear, or polish the turd that is a snowscape under heavy cloud! Best not to waste your battery power and leave it for another day.

Finally, there's the snowscape under bright sun and blue sky. The easiest scenario to do justice, but not without its problems. Firstly, don't forget to overexpose. Secondly, watch that colour balance... again, another situation where the various pre-set white balance settings on the camera will likely struggle. A strong blue cast often dominates with these kind of shots... if you want to know why, then get reading about 'Colour temperature'. Best then to employ the 'custom' white balance setting. The method of doing this will vary from model to model, but basically involves pointing the camera at the dominant element of your shot, or, an area that is white, or you wish to appear as white, and taking a reading, then saving this as your 'custom' white balance for the duration of your shoot.
The blue cast can sometimes, if not too overpowering, be a welcome bonus by adding another colour to the scene, and helping to convey a cool mood.

The images on here were just pulled off the web help illustrate this post a little - I'll try and get a couple of my own shots up as soon as poss.

How about seeing some of yer efforts on this thread then guys?
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Last edited by Scratch; 04-12-2010 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:02 PM
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Very interesting Rob.
I have no excuse not to join in, we have enough of the horrible stuff here, and a new Canon camera on Thursday.
I'll try my best just for you.
S.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:05 PM
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a new Canon camera
Ooooh ooh! Whaddya got Wrinkles? Whaddya got?
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Scratch View Post
Ooooh ooh! Whaddya got Wrinkles? Whaddya got?
At this point barmcake, I would love to tell you it's a Nikon 449vsr gti1.2xli.
But it's not, I am just a simple chap, by recommendation from a kind and patient man on here I am getting a Canon Ixus 105 for my birthday.
I already have a fairly decent digital, but it isn't too hot at macro shots, and the Canon apparently is much better.
We will see, don't get it until Thursday, but if it works well, I will bore you to death with shots of badly tied flies, and I will be sending you a few for next years calendar, God knows it could do with a decent cover shot this year.
Que Mr Pengs.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:22 PM
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God knows it could do with a decent cover shot this year.
Ouch This place is always good for a laugh
Nice article and I really like that second pic.
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Old 03-12-2010, 10:48 PM
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Nice article Rob
I'll throw one into the ring. Havent tried to put it right in photoshop. or work out a crop for it. I snapped this, this arvo.

A typical aim at the sun set, and let the camera figure an exposure ( I was on F22 so it was pretty slow) and tried to make sure the distant trees where sharp.
The blue cast is always a killer for me, especially when the sky looks pretty good.
Anyway all comments and suggestions welcome.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 03-12-2010, 11:13 PM
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you can use the Zone System to control exactly how you want to expose any image...it can be complex if you want to get really into it...but it means you are in control - not the camera.

For complete control a spot meter exposure control is required, but for very general exposure - take a reading on the general shadow area -whatever it is - it may be the snow - and was in the previous examples..

and increase your exposure 2 stops...ie f8 to f4 - or 1/125 to 1/30th - or any comination as appropriate
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Old 03-12-2010, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by whingingpom View Post
I'll throw one into the ring. Havent tried to put it right in photoshop. or work out a crop for it. I snapped this, this arvo.....
Not so much a snow problem Pom, as a bright sky/dull forground problem. Relatively easily fixed in the field with an N.D. grad (Graduated Neutral Density Filter), or in Photoshop with either the 'N.D. Filter' in Camera RAW, or a gradient fill overlay, or a layer mask trick or two. The N/D. grad in the field will usually give the best, most natural looking results, but PS is always worth a go too... depends alot on the individual image... some will work a treat, others can be a real pig to get right.

I'll have a pop at it over the weekend Pom, in the meantime, have a mess with the Grad Filter in Camera RAW, and/or duplicate yer layer in PS, tweak yer bottom layer with levels, curves, bightness... whatever, to fetch out the foreground then pop a layer mask over the top layer and paint the white away with black using a soft edged brush to reveal the adjusted foreground layer underneath.
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Old 04-12-2010, 01:31 AM
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Good post Rob, some very handy advice.
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Old 04-12-2010, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whingingpom View Post
I'll throw one into the ring. Havent tried to put it right in photoshop. or work out a crop for it. I snapped this, this arvo.

Click the image to open in full size.


Pom, just had a quick fiddle, so to speak... was this anything like how you saw the scene....?

Click the image to open in full size.
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